Don't you just love posts that start off with a "how much anything" question?:P

OK, I know results vary from jeep to jeep, and I know I will not come up with a hard and fast answer, I just want to hear about your experiences.

I am looking at lifts for my heep. I am trying to clear 33's, wheel offset is yet undetermined, because I have yet to figure out the proper scrub radius (well, that isn't true, I just haven't figured out what offset will give me the proper scrub radius).

I know I am looking at ~3" of lift, t-case drop is not an option, and I don't want to do a bodylift/MML. Due to budgetary constraints, I want to avoid a CV driveshaft. I do have a fixed yolk on the t'case, and I will end up with tube flat fenders on the front.

OK, so the question at hand is, how far have you been able to lift your tj w/o running into driveline vibrations? What kits are you using, and what problems have you had with them? How many "extra" parts did you end up buying in order to have the kit function properly?

Well Rubicon Express sells the 3.5" Standard Suspension System it's their "budget" lift for TJ's but the cool part about it is you can easily upgrade it down the road.

The kit clears 33's, needs no SYE/CV, but may require the 1" TC drop if the vibes are bad. I have a buddy who runs this kit on his Jeep which is also his DD and we didn't need to put on the TC drop. This kit costs around $490.00 You still use your stock control arms and track bars with this kit, but upgrade your springs, bump stops and brakelines. On the trials he gets next to no rub and it has plenty of flex.

Upgrading to the Superflex kit isn't that hard once you have the standard kit on (this is what my buddy is doing right now) Control arms and a heavy duty front track bar are about all he needs. If you want to go straight to the Superflex kit you are looking at a cost of around $770.00 for it.

It's all in how much you want to try and do and what you are willing to sacrafice. I have a friend who has a 4cyl. TJ and all he did was put cherokee springs on his rig and he fits 33's with minor rub and problems.

I am more concerned with how much lift people are getting away with before they run into driveline vibes than I am with specific lifts right now. Who's products I use to achieve the lift are a different subject.:8

In reality, you will have vibes when you go past 2"without a tcase drop. Even minor vibes are bad. Change your output yoke and get a cv driveshaft. If you get a local shop to make a driveshaft, you probably are looking at about $230. This is your best solution. Do Not Believe that you can get away with 3+ and not do something to the driveline. Vibes destroy u joints and tcase bearings as well as diff bearings. Even minor vibes.

Brian...

My Jeep does well without any vibes. 2 1/2". No tcase drop. I did end up doing the 1" body lift to fit my 33's. Im very happy with how she drives, both on the street and off. It would be interesting to here if you can do the 3" without a sye, or tcase drop. But its a big IF. Im not sure Id take the chance for a measily 1/2"

I was thinking for a while to upgrade to 4" springs, but all the work that Id have to do for an 1 1/2 wasnt worth it to me, not to mention the money. Why mess with something good?

Happy shopping :)

Tam

Originally posted by JeepGal
[B]... It would be interesting to here if you can do the 3" without a sye, or tcase drop.

I already have a fixed yolk, so that helps a bit...

You are right, it is a big "if". Some people seem to have problems with 2.5" of lift, and some say they are OK with 3.5".

I just don't want to go the cheap(er) route and end up with vibes, then end up spending more in the end than I would if I would have bought a more complete kit to start with. The problem with the complete kit (such as the RE superflex) is the cost.

Oh well, my tires still have a 4 or 5 months left on 'em. At least I have a little time.:8

Originally posted by goodtimes
I already have a fixed yolk, so that helps a bit...

You are right, it is a big "if". Some people seem to have problems with 2.5" of lift, and some say they are OK with 3.5".

I just don't want to go the cheap(er) route and end up with vibes, then end up spending more in the end than I would if I would have bought a more complete kit to start with. The problem with the complete kit (such as the RE superflex) is the cost.

Oh well, my tires still have a 4 or 5 months left on 'em. At least I have a little time.:8

I just thought of something . . . I know you have a fixed yoke at the t-case. With that being the case, you can buy the CV part at any Napa. I dont see why you just couldnt replace the t-case u-joint with the new CV unit. Maybe I'm missing something, but that might work . . . eh? :D

I *Think* I have seen RE 3.5 SF kits on the net for $500 or so, that seems like a pretty good deal to me. I dont really know what it includes, but I think its fairly complete (with the exception or trackbars, I believe). A mix and match kit might be the best for you. :D :D

the 2.25" (true 2.25, not that rancho crap:D) setup I had on with 31s caused me vibes. Sarah put it on her Jeep and it caused her vibes. I'd say bite the bullit and get a driveshaft. my $.02.:)

Originally posted by Dukes69
I just thought of something . . . I know you have a fixed yoke at the t-case. With that being the case, you can buy the CV part at any Napa. I dont see why you just couldnt replace the t-case u-joint with the new CV unit. Maybe I'm missing something, but that might work . . . eh? :D

I *Think* I have seen RE 3.5 SF kits on the net for $500 or so, that seems like a pretty good deal to me. I dont really know what it includes, but I think its fairly complete (with the exception or trackbars, I believe). A mix and match kit might be the best for you. :D :D

If I use a CV shaft, I have to have adjustable arms (either upper or lower...preferrably upper) to adjust the pinion angle. And I can't just swap out a single cardan joint for a double, the shaft would be too long. The problem with the 3.5" superflex is that it doesn't come with adjustable uppers, only fixed lowers, and no track bars. By the time you add in the cost of the uppers and track bars, you are at the same price as the 4.5" SF.

I am not really encouraged though. If everyone seems to be getting vibes around 2.5", there is no way I'm gonna get away with 3.5".:mad:

Oh well, I guess I gotta do it right then.....:rolleyes:

I got vibes on mine when I originally had 2" spacers. I used washers for my tcase. I am the type that doesn't accept any vibes. Vibes are bad. Lots of expensive damage is done by even the smallest of vibes.

Originally posted by igofshn
I got vibes on mine when I originally had 2" spacers. I used washers for my tcase. I am the type that doesn't accept any vibes. Vibes are bad. Lots of expensive damage is done by even the smallest of vibes.
I know. I don't like them either. Too much $$$ can go out the window when you start eating bearings.

Somewhat OT, but related to this:

How exactly do you guys adjust your rear pinions to get a good driveline angle?

On the YJ's you can either take off the old spring perches and weld on new ones at the correct angle or just install degree shims.

How's it done on TJ's?

I'm just curious, i know when i did my 1st SYE/CV i was rather annoyed to learn that even with the new highspeed SYE, and custom built driveshaft my pinion angle was still terrible and i still had vibes.

It is my understanding that the pinion angle on TJs can be adjusted through the application of cam bolts( at the control arm/axle junction) and/or adjustable control arms. Most "Flex" type kits offer one or the other either as standard equipment or sometimes both as an added cost option. For example Teraflex 4" system comes with adjustable lower arms standard. R. E. and Trailmaster offer adjustable lower arms as an option. Skyjacker offers pinion cam bolts as an option, with adjustable arms standard on the more expesive "flex" series, and Superlift offers both cambolts and adjustable arms standard on their "rockrunner" lift. It all depends on how much you want to spend and who you want to pay it to.

Cam bolts blow. I wouldn't waste my money (again). I tried them. Adjustable uppers are the way to go.

Originally posted by PondScum


How's it done on TJ's?

I'm just curious, i know when i did my 1st SYE/CV i was rather annoyed to learn that even with the new highspeed SYE, and custom built driveshaft my pinion angle was still terrible and i still had vibes.
Adjustable upper and/or lower control arms. Screw um in and out to change the length and dial in the proper pinion angle.:8

PM jim79cj7 ... he might have a used one -- he's got all kinds of used parts from installing lift kits.

Originally posted by goodtimes
And I can't just swap out a single cardan joint for a double, the shaft would be too long.

Even if you lift? I would think that the added length of the double cardan would be canceled out by the added suspension lift. Maybe I'm missing something? Would it still be too long?

I know this is an old thread but I just wanted to be sure. I ordered the RE 3.5" lift with the Tcase drop kit. I should be OK with this....correct? I am talking about vibes. I shouldn't run into any problems right? I don't think so but I just need a little reassurance. My Jeep only has 1500 miles on it and I don't want to have to start replacing DS or any other joints or anything. Let me know. Oh...........you guys rock!!!!!

Thanx

Jason

Originally posted by loop choke
I know this is an old thread but I just wanted to be sure. I ordered the RE 3.5" lift with the Tcase drop kit. I should be OK with this....correct? I am talking about vibes. I shouldn't run into any problems right? I don't think so but I just need a little reassurance. My Jeep only has 1500 miles on it and I don't want to have to start replacing DS or any other joints or anything. Let me know. Oh...........you guys rock!!!!!

Thanx

Jason

Every Jeep is Different. But at 3.5 inches its almost a givin. IMHO T-case drops are just band-aids, I would only keep it on there untill you can afford to fix the problem.

Originally posted by Dukes69
I just thought of something . . . I know you have a fixed yoke at the t-case. With that being the case, you can buy the CV part at any Napa. I dont see why you just couldnt replace the t-case u-joint with the new CV unit. Maybe I'm missing something, but that might work . . . eh? :D

I *Think* I have seen RE 3.5 SF kits on the net for $500 or so, that seems like a pretty good deal to me. I dont really know what it includes, but I think its fairly complete (with the exception or trackbars, I believe). A mix and match kit might be the best for you. :D :D

Drive shaft would be way too long.

Originally posted by igofshn
Drive shaft would be way too long.

Hey Al, Welcome to 2004 :D

I never looked at the date. Someone else brought it back to the top.