I bought a new battery, a new starter, a new solenoid, and new spark plugs. When i turn the key all i get is the sound of the starter turning the engine and it trying to start. I know im getting fuel, so i think the timing is off. There is one problem, im a little unclear about checking and changing the timing. To figure this out i was told to take the number one spark plug out and cover the hole with my finger to feel when it starts compressing. After that you move the distrubutor cap around? I dunno im confused about this stuff so thats why im asking.

Originally posted by JeepJunkie
There is one problem, im a little unclear about checking and changing the timing. To figure this out i was told to take the number one spark plug out and cover the hole with my finger to feel when it starts compressing. After that you move the distrubutor cap around? I dunno im confused about this stuff so thats why im asking.


The finger thing is partially right. That is used to find TDC (Top Dead Center). Turn the engine over by hand, NOT with the key. When the engine is at TDC the rotor should be pointing(or close) to the number one plug wire on the cap. If its not pointed any where near the number one wire, then you have the distributor gear off a tooth or two. Adjust if necessary. With that said, try and start the Jeep. If it starts, Cool. If not have some one slowly rotate the distributor in one direction then the other. Hopefully if will start. If it doesnt, the it sounds like you have other problems. If it does start, whip out the timing light and adjust the timing to the factory spec. Good Luck! Let us know how it goes.

I found what i thought was TDC and the distributor cap was way off. So i pulled it out and got it to go back in very close the the #1 spot. Also for good measure i went out and got new plug wires. When i tried starting it up it just wouldnt do it i got the same sound as before. Could the whole Dist Cap be bad? Or is there something else i can try before buying a new one?

Originally posted by JeepJunkie
I found what i thought was TDC and the distributor cap was way off. So i pulled it out and got it to go back in very close the the #1 spot. Also for good measure i went out and got new plug wires. When i tried starting it up it just wouldnt do it i got the same sound as before. Could the whole Dist Cap be bad? Or is there something else i can try before buying a new one?

Are you getting a spark? Does it do anything? spit, spudder, backfire?

Originally posted by Dukes69
Are you getting a spark? Does it do anything? spit, spudder, backfire?

I am getting spark, at least in the #1 plug i pulled it out and cranked and it looked nice and sparky. I shoulda probaby checked the others too. From what i hear i would say it sounds like one piston is firing which i assume isnt enough to get the engine going. Luckily it doesnt backfire so i dont think the timing is real bad. I guess one or two of the connections could be bad? if thats true would cleaning them up help or would i want to get a new cap and rotor. And how much would i expect to pay for those parts?

Put a timing light on it before buying anything. If the timing is way off, even if the distributor is indexed correctly, it may not start.
--Rick :shades:

All the plugs are firing and i can smell the gas so i have spark and i have fuel. So other than that my timing must be either way off which i doubt because it sounds so close to starting or my cap is bad.


I didnt know the timing light worked when the engine didnt run, but ill try that tomorrow if i can get a light.

Also, maybe im missing something but other than being new and clean how does a new cap and rotor help the timing, or does it?

A new cap and rotor doesnt really "help" timing, but it helps in getting the most spark at the plug. Toss a timing light on it. You may still have the Distributor off a tooth.

im pretty convinced i have the timing right. Today i tried pouring gas into the barrel of the carb and i got the same old sound. I fugured what the heck and i sprayed a pretty good amound of carb cleaner, and i actually got some good sound. It sounded like it fired 2 or 3 times then the spray was used up. So i kept using more and more and it kept getting better and better. Unfortunately it never started, for one i ran out of spray. Could the carb be bad? I know its getting gas, i had my dads friend help me and he disconnected the fuel line and said gas was flowing. My car was sitting for who knows how long before i bought it, but it did run when i got it. Since ive had it, its been sitting a couple months. Could my gas be bad, could condensation form inside the tank if it just sits for a couple months. Or has 19 years of crap in the tank finally caught up with me?

Would it be worth it to buy a new Carb or could i get it rebuilt?

Originally posted by JeepJunkie
Would it be worth it to buy a new Carb or could i get it rebuilt?

I think rebuild kits are cheap enough. Might as well give it a shot. I dont think thats the problem, but it could be adding to the problem.

Have you checked the timing with a light?

You will not be able to guess the timing unless you have someone rotate the distributor in tiny increments while cranking to make sure you have covered a range. In that process, you could foul the plugs up with gas, making it difficult to start even when you rotate past the "good" timing spot. Carb cleaner or ether will ignite more easily than gasoline, so the timing could be way off. You really need a timing light to set the timing anyhow, so you might as well get one. All four plugs can fire their electrodes off, but if they are not firing at the right time, it won't start. A light is probably not much more money than a carb rebuild kit. You'll probably end up buying a light after you spend four hours rebuilding the carb because it will run like crap if you are off even a few degrees... and that's assuming rebuilding the carb even makes it start.

Get it to start first, then look at the carb. Even a wasted carb should be able to start the engine, although it may run like junk.

Thanks Rick. I will get a timing light, and test that out. I have a friend that works for cal trans as a mechanic and he is going to come this weekend to help me figure this out.Thanks for all your help guys.

Well apparently when i put the carb back on i didnt set it on all nice and perfect so there was a pretty good size gap on the bottom where it sits up to the engine. silly me:rolleyes: so anyway it runs now. but its really rough and idles fast and dies pretty easily. Plus there is air and gas mist shooting out the top of the carb barrel. anybody know what work lies ahead for me?

Plus i can tell im gonna have a helluva time trying to get this thing to pass smog. Its gonna make me so sad:(

Originally posted by JeepJunkie
Well apparently when i put the carb back on i didnt set it on all nice and perfect so there was a pretty good size gap on the bottom where it sits up to the engine. silly me:rolleyes: so anyway it runs now. but its really rough and idles fast and dies pretty easily. Plus there is air and gas mist shooting out the top of the carb barrel. anybody know what work lies ahead for me?

Check the timing again with a timing light. Adjust it to the factory spec, if possible. Find the Air/Fuel mixture screws on the carb and adjust them. I was always told to do it like this: screw them all the way in (if there are 2) and the screw them out 2 turns, this should get you close. From there play with the screws untill you find the highest idle. The reason why its idleing fast now is probably because the idle screw is turned up too much.

Originally posted by Dukes69
Check the timing again with a timing light. Adjust it to the factory spec, if possible. Find the Air/Fuel mixture screws on the carb and adjust them. I was always told to do it like this: screw them all the way in (if there are 2) and the screw them out 2 turns, this should get you close. From there play with the screws untill you find the highest idle. The reason why its idleing fast now is probably because the idle screw is turned up too much.


I must have done something bad. Now i cant get it to start at all. There are 2 screws one above the other, but the book i have is crappy and doesnt explain anything well. It doesnt help if the car wont start and it says to set the idle at a certain RPM...well there is no tach so i dont know how i would do that. So how do adjust the two screws to get it to start, the book is unclear for the year and single barrel carb i have.:mad:

you might want to get a better book. My method of tuning carbs maynot work for this particular one, it was just what I always used to do. Find a good manual, Factory Service Manuals are always the best, and work the price!

Originally posted by Dukes69
you might want to get a better book. My method of tuning carbs maynot work for this particular one, it was just what I always used to do. Find a good manual, Factory Service Manuals are always the best, and work the price!

Alright I'll look into it. Thanks.

well its been a month since i posted here last, and i cant say ive worked on my jeep every day but i did work a lot. Ive screwed and unscrewed all screws on the carb and while doing that tried rotating the distributor, ive poured gas into the carb. So anyone have any ideas as to why it worked a while back and now it wont work? The most i get is the cranking sound and the occasional sputter of combustion then back to the cranking. What i find weird is that the most promising sounds come when i let off the key, everytime i let go i get a sputter that sounds like it would start if i held the key in. but if i do i get nothing special. Could the key be throwing something off, i know it sounds crazy, but i think the key is doing something funky to the electrical. Im pretty sure all the fuses are good except i cant figure out why the only dash light that comes on is the battery light, and it comes on whenever you hook up the battery cables even after a nights charge. Im getting frustrated especially since i want to start modding but i need to make sure it will actually run and be smog legal and all that crap. If you have any ideas i would love to hear em if not, your 2 cents works great too. Thanks guys and gals.

wow, I really dont know. Maybe there are some sensors or something that are screwed up? CPS, TPS? Its difficult to say whats wrong with out looking at it. Hopefully we're sending you in the right direction. Good Luck!

well talked to my friend, he came over to help, decided the key was shorting something out. So there was no spark while holding the key in but when i let go it fired a couple times. so i gotta start checking grounds and replacing electrical crap

ok FINALLY got it running...timing was off a bit, but now its perfect. It is LOUD! i couldnt figure it out untill i was driving it back into my backyard and my dad said he could see the grass blowing from underneath the car. So i got down touched the end of the tailpipe and it was not hot at all...only a bit warm and i had been running it for a long enough to where it should be warm. looked at the muffler and there is a hole about 5 inches across and an ich high right in the seam of the back of the muffler, so that exlpains the noise. Now, it dies extremely easily and if i dont give it a little gas it will just poop out. it also doesnt run very smooth...runs a little sputters almost dies then picks up agian. It must be the carb. how should i clean it, tune it, set it up so it gives the gas and air in a better mixture. I know the screws are there but what else can i do. Its a 4 cyl with a single barrel carb. Thank ya

ok i figured that the electric choke thing had a screw missing so it was getting bounced around and getting changed so if the engine ran a little bit i would end up getting to much are and it would die. So i found a screw and put it in. Now, its still very rough but if i keep the hood open it runs. As for when i close the hood after a few seconds it sputters unless i give it gas. Still a carb problem. Another prob i encountered was the fact when i turned the key to off it kept running, not normal idle but enough to where i was like "oh s%$&." but luckily it finally went off and died. So electrical, anyone know anything about that prob? Also what kind of carb do you recommend if i got one, and if i didnt would it be ok running with an old carb?

Originally posted by JeepJunkie
Another prob i encountered was the fact when i turned the key to off it kept running, not normal idle but enough to where i was like "oh s%$&." but luckily it finally went off and died. So electrical, anyone know anything about that prob?

The problem is certainly not electrical. That is a condition known as "dieseling" and it is caused by the carburator butterfly valve remaining open just enough to continue feeding a tiny bit of fuel into a hot engine. Chances are you have carbon deposits in the combustion chambers that may remain red-hot for some moments after the engine quits running, and acts as an igniter for the fuel.

You need to get a rebuild kit for your carburator, and when you rebuild it, you need to ensure that the main throttle butterfly is adjusted so that it closes completely when your foot is off the gas (there are idle circuits built in to the carburator that will keep it idling with the throttles closed).

The only thing you need to keep in mind when rebuilding your old carburator is that the throttle body housing may be worn in the areas where the butterfly valve rods pass through the housing. This will cause air seepage, and make tuning the carburator difficult, at best. You will also need to carefully inspect all of the housing for any cracks, or other damage that could cause air leakage.

When you clean the carburator housing and other parts, do not use small wires or picks to clean any of the small holes and passages in the housings or other small parts. Soak them in solvent (Gunk is excellent, and can be purchaced in gallon cans and come with a small parts basket insde the can), and then blow the passages clean with compressed air. Wires and even stiff brushes can damage the ports and venturi openings, causing erratic performance and difficulty in tuning.

Remember above all else that carburators are not nearly as complicated as they seem on the surface. They aren't "Rocket Science', and they can be understood and mastered by just about anyone. Have fun with the project!
:D

Thanks Paul. That will help a lot. I was planning on rebuilding it and that will help. Also i was contemplating just buying a new carb, any ideas on what kind to look at. Also the engine is brand spankin new and has less than 100 miles, so could there still be significant carbon deposits? I guess there must be since it was "deiseling" Could this have happened by taking poor care of it?

oh yea...if it diesels again what do i do to stop it??