I am thinking about getting the RE 3.5" standard lift. Later, when I get more $$$$ I will upgrade to the Superflex. What do you guys think about this lift? Good, bad, indifferent?

Also, i don't know a lot about coils. Can I take off my rear sway bars? I had them off on my Xterra but it had leafs. I had no problems with body roll and had much more wheel travel. Is it the same on coils? What about the fronts? Can I put quick disconnects on? I don't want to roll or anything. Any help is appreciated.

Jason

You can take the rear sway bar off since I don't think it is stiff enough to make much difference in body roll anyway. On the other hand, it's not stiff enough to make it a problem on the trail either. Front disconnects are widely available, just search online, or you can do this (http://www.myjeeprocks.com/forums/showthread.php?threadid=380&highlight=disconnects). Lots of people here run the RE lift and like it.

The RE kits work well. save your money and get the sf from the get go. leave your rear sway bar connected, it'll flex just fine.

I dont have a rear sway bar and I've had no problems. I know it will flex "just fine" . . . but I want it to flex BETTER!!! :D :D :D

I'd save for what you really want, you'll be happier in the long run. Give KBOffroad a hollar and see if he can get you a deal on RE stuff. Make sure to ask for your MJR discount. :D

I called KB Offroad and mentioned MJR. What a smokin' deal. $583!!!!! I went with the RE 3.5" standard lift for now. I will upgrade with minor things such as control arms later. Thanx for the replies!!!!!

Jason

Hey Loop choke,
I was thinking about buying the same lift kit (R.E. 3.5 standard). Please let us know how you like it, and how hard it was to put on. I was wondering about adjusting drive angles and vib noise with it also????????thanks, rob

I love the lift. I have nothing but good things to say about RE and KB offroad.

The lift was a piece of cake to put in too. No problems. I left off the bump stop extensions and rear sway bar so there was that much less to do. The driveline vibs were solved by the T-case lowering kit. It runs purrrfect now.

The only problem I had (tech gurus help me out here) was I broke the tack weld, or whatever holds the nut in the frame, on my front drivers side cross member. I got it out with no problem. When I went to put it back in I got it hand tight and as soon as I put a wrench to it it just started spinning. I can't get the bolt in or out.

Any ideas?????

Jason

I have heard of this problem on XJ's. The solution involved cutting a small hole in the unibody above the rivnut and tackwelding it back in place in the "framerail" and covering up with a bit of sheet metal.

That seems like a bit of a hassle as it would require removal of the tub to open the frame. Why not just pop a rivnut in from the outside in? Since you have a TC lowering kit, you won't need to flush up against the frame rail.

http://www.bollhoff-rivnut.com/

PS. I would make sure you don't bottom out on your pricey shocks if you leave the bumpstops out. My RE SF2 kit didn't protect my shocks even with the supplied stops installed. Needed a bit more added in.

I broke a drill bit inside my frame the other day....:rolleyes:


sorry i cant help:( ;)

Thanx for the info jm. The thing that annoys me is that Jeep won't fix it because I worked on my own vehicle. It has 3000 miles on it. Those welds aren't supposed to break. They are alienating a customer over a nut.

Jason

Yeah, Daimler-Chrysler is doing their hardest to kill off the Jeep brand unfortunately.

Just a note, go easy with the impact wrenches on the rivnuts. I've been lucky so far cranking them up to torque 4 on 150 psi, but one is supposed to finish tightening them with a hand torque wrench.

I have heard of a few people breaking those damn things off....Personally, I don't use impact tools on any bolt that is threaded into one of 'em. They just don't hold on that well.

Originally posted by jmbrowning
Yeah, Daimler-Chrysler is doing their hardest to kill off the Jeep brand unfortunately.

Just a note, go easy with the impact wrenches on the rivnuts. I've been lucky so far cranking them up to torque 4 on 150 psi, but one is supposed to finish tightening them with a hand torque wrench.

I didn't use an impact wrench. All I did was hand tighten it. As soon as I put the ratchet on it to START tightening it, it broke. I'm pretty p.o'd at the stealership for not fixing this.

Jason