I just did a disc brake conversion on my TJ.

Parts

2- rotors (resurfaced)
2- calipers
new pads
new E brake shoes
2- dust shields
2- brake lines

Donor vehicle - 1998 Grand Cherokee with Dana 35.

My vehicle - 1998 TJ Sport with Super 35, 4.10's, auto and riding on 35's.

This is a really simple modification. It is all bolt on and the results are excelent. I'm going to get a new proportioning valve from a 2003 Wrangler or a Grand Cherokee because the proportioning valve on my 98 is for drum brakes and the new Jeeps come with discs. I still need to get E brake cables from a Grand Cherokee. That should be this week. This modification will work on Dana 35's and Dana 44's. With the Dana 44 you need to get axle retainer from the dealer ($10 or less).

http://www.stu-offroad.com/brakeconv/bc-1.htm


This is the write up that I used to do my conversion.

Very cool Al. How does it stop? Is there a noticable difference in stopping power?

Are you sure all the '03's come with rear disks? I thought it was only the rubicons.:confused:

Originally posted by goodtimes
Are you sure all the '03's come with rear disks? I thought it was only the rubicons.:confused:


I'm pretty sure but I might be wrong.

I read that the 4 wheel disks were unique to the rubicon (as far as wranglers were concerned), but I have never looked to verify....but now that I think about it, I do recall seeing disks on the back end of a new grand while I was wandering around the dealer lot waiting on my window to be replaced.

Either way, I'm sure a call (or trip) to the dealer would verify one way or the other. It would suck to find out after you already bought the part.

Grands have had them for years, I can always use the Rubi valvel if needed.

Al,
Any update on the Valve? A P/N would be cool :D

I haven't done the valve yet. I haven't decided if I will wait till after the Rubicon before I do it.

How are the brakes working with the original proportioning valve? Have you thought about a aftermarket adjustable valve?

Originally posted by goodtimes
How are the brakes working with the original proportioning valve? Have you thought about a aftermarket adjustable valve?

I was thinking the same thing

Aftermarket adjustables are cool. We use them on the Race Car. When I finally get my D30 for the front, it will have Disc, and then someday a disc brake conversion for the D44 in the rear. Someday!

Wilwood makes a nice adjustable prop valve :D

al, have you tried removing the o-ring from the prop. valve?

http://www.stu-offroad.com/brakeconv/bc-5.htm

otherwise, i've got a prop. valve from a ZJ with your name on it ;)

Originally posted by cbremer
al, have you tried removing the o-ring from the prop. valve?

http://www.stu-offroad.com/brakeconv/bc-5.htm

otherwise, i've got a prop. valve from a ZJ with your name on it ;)

I looked at that and the only o ring I saw was on the bolt that goes inside. Wasn't sure if that was the one to remove. I'll take the ZJ prop vavle.

removing the o ring works well. i did it for mine, and it is as if it were designed for the disci in the rear. your tj should be no problem at all with this. my late model yj, and your tj have the same booster.
the 88 yj has a weaker booster, and it (the pedal) was a bit soft after removing the o ring, but, still stopped fine.
good luck :)

Where is the O ring? Is in in the valve or on the cap?

see the bolt with the black rubber thing on the front of this valve?
http://www.imagestation.com/picture/sraid69/p934f55bc72176a25f90766b02debdbba/fbb13b5a.jpg
remove the bolt. you will see a spring, a shaft, and the o ring type thing in there. remove the ring, and put the rest back. there is really nothing to it. 5 minutes. and you may, or may not need to bleed your breaks. when i took mine out the pedal was still very firm, but i bled em' anyway.
http://www.imagestation.com/picture/sraid69/pdac96540e9f92e8407a15625e7cb136a/fbb13b55.jpg
http://www.imagestation.com/picture/sraid69/p157f8eb86a7ddba5a4439b2fc656fc77/fbb13b4f.jpg
http://www.imagestation.com/picture/sraid69/p3a8fc7479b0985fd63fa3e6c473f947d/fbb13b49.jpg

I pulled mine apart last week and didn't see the O ring. Is it inside the valve.

its in there. just pull out the metal rod..

That's what I didn't do. I pull it out monday. TY