I need help! My SE is ok and all, but Im the only guy not running 33's on my ride. I really enjoy the over the road fuel mileage, but am willing to sacrafice this for more lift. Its is a must for at this point. I am looking for info from anyone that has a SE lifted to verge of overboard, but still happy with performance.

how much money do you have to spend?
:wave:

My game plan is the keep the rig as low as possible and still clear the tires at full compression.

The 3 things you have to play with are:

suspension lift
body lift
body trimming
track width

oops that's 4...

I always consider a mod to my ride an investment and as long as its a good one I think Im looking for the best answer to my prob. Im not looking to brake the bank but realize there may be some substantial cost associated with what Im looking for. Im just looking for some really good advise for this project. Thanks for any input!

with no idea how much money you are willing to spend, our ideas are cut short.
you looking at 1000? 2000? 5000? a couple hundred?
we need more info ;) :wave:

what type of trails do you enjoy?
what do you plan to graduate to?

I guess I want to spend as much as it takes. I think suspension lift cost appx $1k pending hookup w/vendor and of course wheels/tires. My main question is gears/eng mods/and any addtl items im not sure of.

I'd like to have more low end torque. Like to take it slow and easy, and as challanging as possible w/i limits.

is your jeep a 4 or 6 cyl? auto or manual?
are you stuck on 33" tires or is 35" an option?
are you able to do the install yourself?

again.. what type of trails do you like to run?
rocks, big ass rocks, dirt roads, mud?

so... you have a grand in the suspension, and another in tires and wheels.
then one more for gearing.... this is where you need to know for sure you want 33" tires and not 35's.

then there is the sye [recommended]
how much of your money can i spend again?

another question.... what rear axle is in your jeep? not the dreaded 35 i hope. idf so, lets dole out another 1500 bucks to fix that ;)

I'd like to have more low end torque. Like to take it slow and easy, and as challanging as possible w/i limits.
well then! this is what i like to hear!
lets have a look at the atlas II or, even better the STAK

http://www.jeephorizons.com/news/images/stak/mb3.jpg

if those are out of the budget.. there is the tera low for about 800 bucks.

lets go back to the budget question..:wave:

because we havent even beefed up the axles yet :D

I think I made a wrong, correct that, I know I made a wrong choice with the engine selection. I only have a 4 cylndr in the Jeep. I am stuck on 33's if possible, just not sure if feasible. I guess I do need to give some attn to the the axle(s) gearing as I do have the stock 35 rear and I guess 30 in the front. If I was to drop a 6 cylnder in would i still need to address axle gearing issues?
PS. Thanks for the help!

is your jeep a 4 or 6 cyl? auto or manual?


:wave: We are in the 4 Banger garage :rolleyes: ;) :8

CodyB, Your question is a good one. Really :yay:

You are starting with the big picture: trying to describe your Jeep when it is done. Then every mod you do will move you closer to the end state without removing something you installed 6 months ago :no:

The prob some of us are facing is our rides are never actually done and we have arrived at the end state 10 times :yay:

Budget is finding the lowest cost possible to acheive what Im looking for. Just want to make the right moves in mods as not to create wasted money out of pocket. Trying to make smart moves, you know?

4" short arm RE lift with adjustable upper, and lower control arms, 33" tires, 4.88 gears, either a dana 44 or a super 35, anti rock sway bar, and call it a day.

if you feel like that wont get you where you need to go, sell the jeep and get one with a 6 cylinder ;)

Nana, I feel this more than not! Its driving me nuts.

I think I made a wrong, correct that, I know I made a wrong choice with the engine selection. I only have a 4 cylndr in the Jeep. I am stuck on 33's if possible, just not sure if feasible. I guess I do need to give some attn to the the axle(s) gearing as I do have the stock 35 rear and I guess 30 in the front. If I was to drop a 6 cylnder in would i still need to address axle gearing issues?
PS. Thanks for the help!

Don't give up yet, the other day I saw a 4 cyl YJ kicking ASS on the rocks.

I don't know the exact spec but here's the important stuff.

SOA = 6" lift

Body lift = 2"

Springs = 2"

4.88 gears

Lockers

Tera Low

33" rubber

This rig was built light: no bumpers, winch, tools, spare axles, or anything.

Erik, thanks a Million. This is what I needed. R and D down to a short List and very much appreciated. If I can ever return favor let me know!

codyb

THE NANA!

Thanks, I will definitly be looking into your suggestion. Sound very valid and do-able.

Rock On!

Oh yeah....he had the Dana 35 :sarah: and 30 with chromoly bits.

I prefer the 6 cyl ('cos I got one) but I have to say he built a great rig for the lowest $

Out!

THE NANA!

Thanks, I will definitly be looking into your suggestion. Sound very valid and do-able.

Rock On!
it wont work for your TJ though... soa is for yj's ;)

Out!

:wave: it looks like CodyB had to go....but we can carry on the discussion :beer: :wrench: :beer: :wrench: :pizza: :tp: :yay:

i do find it interesting how the two people telling cody how to build his tj dont even have one. :)
square headlights rule :D:wave:

wonder if I should pipe in, I know a small amount about 4 banger jeeps

wonder if I should pipe in, I know a small amount about 4 banger jeeps

That's OK, I think Eric and I have it covered :8 ;) :rolleyes: :D

How about some tips from some one running exactly what you want
I have a 98 fourbanger, on 33s
I have a RE Superflex 3.5 inch lift, It works out perfect for 33s, it does'nt rub but its very close (Perfect) In addition to the 3.5 superflex lift the only adjustable control arms I got are for the back, to bring up my pinion angle for my SYE. You may or may not want/need them for the front, I ran with out re-gearing for about a year, Its ok, well more like you get used to it and you think its ok, But I have 4.88s now and its alot better, 75mph cruising is usually no problem, even with the A/C on. Definatley will want to do somthing about the rear end, Seen way to many dana 35s break including mine, I choose the Super 35 kit with the detroit locker, I felt this was the easiest route to take, and it would be free to install with gears Since they would just replace the parts the take out anyways. And I then put a quik Loc in the front, and then put a tera 2 lo kit in to make tight up hill turns easier, since we dont have much torque in the four banger in 2 hi you would stall. Another thing you would probably want to add to your lift is an adjustable front Track bar. The directions for the lift will tell you to drill a whole in the bracket to re-locate the stock one but what happens is that circle whole you drill becomes an oval, and then your track bar bolt wont stay tight, and then you get death wobble all the time. If you play in the rocks, I would recommend steel wheels you can hammer out dents you put in them, I had aluminum wheel at first but destroyed them, much happy with my steelies, and my hammer :) Tires are up to you and what where you wheelie, I had Pro Comp Mud terrians, they were ok, Tore a sidewall and they seemed to where fast, Im happier with my Goodyear Wrangler MTR's they seem to ride better, and hold up much better, the Pro Comps Chunked really easy.
I think that covers most everything! Im pretty happy personally with my setup, I had winch but had to sell it to pay for some bills :( But the only thing Really left on my want list is the Currie Anti Rock.

How about some tips from some one running exactly what you want
I have a 98 fourbanger, on 33s
I have a RE Superflex 3.5 inch lift, It works out perfect for 33s, it does'nt rub but its very close (Perfect) In addition to the 3.5 superflex lift the only adjustable control arms I got are for the back, to bring up my pinion angle for my SYE. You may or may not want/need them for the front, I ran with out re-gearing for about a year, Its ok, well more like you get used to it and you think its ok, But I have 4.88s now and its alot better, 75mph cruising is usually no problem, even with the A/C on. Definatley will want to do somthing about the rear end, Seen way to many dana 35s break including mine, I choose the Super 35 kit with the detroit locker, I felt this was the easiest route to take, and it would be free to install with gears Since they would just replace the parts the take out anyways. And I then put a quik Loc in the front, and then put a tera 2 lo kit in to make tight up hill turns easier, since we dont have much torque in the four banger in 2 hi you would stall. Another thing you would probably want to add to your lift is an adjustable front Track bar. The directions for the lift will tell you to drill a whole in the bracket to re-locate the stock one but what happens is that circle whole you drill becomes an oval, and then your track bar bolt wont stay tight, and then you get death wobble all the time. If you play in the rocks, I would recommend steel wheels you can hammer out dents you put in them, I had aluminum wheel at first but destroyed them, much happy with my steelies, and my hammer :) Tires are up to you and what where you wheelie, I had Pro Comp Mud terrians, they were ok, Tore a sidewall and they seemed to where fast, Im happier with my Goodyear Wrangler MTR's they seem to ride better, and hold up much better, the Pro Comps Chunked really easy.
I think that covers most everything! Im pretty happy personally with my setup, I had winch but had to sell it to pay for some bills :( But the only thing Really left on my want list is the Currie Anti Rock.
--
Sounds like you can speak from experience! Will definity keep your input in mind when upgrading. I think I need to do gears first. Anyone see anything wrong with this first?

:thumbs_up :thumbs_do

You should be OK regearing first if your running a 31 inch tire, if your running a 30 inch tire it would put your RPMS at 65mph at about 3500 this is a bit high since 3000 is probably where you will want to be your gas mileage will suck, But you definately would fly up the hills!

--
Sounds like you can speak from experience! Will definity keep your input in mind when upgrading. I think I need to do gears first. Anyone see anything wrong with this first?

:thumbs_up :thumbs_do

While you've got the axles all opened up you might as well install lockers, which should be sized for 30 spline axle shafts, which means you will need the super 35 kit....:yay:

While you've got the axles all opened up you might as well install lockers, which should be sized for 30 spline axle shafts, which means you will need the super 35 kit....:yay:

I agree, Otherwise your going to pay to have the same work done twice, and not to mention you'll kick your self in the arse when you snap an axle, The lower gears are going to make snapping axles that much easier!

Alrighty, 4 pooper has better weight distribution and can make a killer trail/general purpose rig. Run it with a 4" Rubicon short arm kit with good shocks (like the Bilstein 5150's) then you've goata couple of choices, high skid and 33's or bigger axles and 35 plus tires, i've seen some good prices on rubicon TJ 44's and they're airlocked and 4:10 geared already. . don't get fooled into thinking that a 4:1 kit will help you. standard low range is perfect for sand and mud, but a 4:1 is too low (you're not going to use Hi much offroad) but you still need deeper on the rocks maybe look at a klune V underdrive or that 3 speed transfer case thingy, personally I like to run around 100:1 plus in the big stuff.

I'm dreaming about a pair of 44's with 5.89's detriot front ,spool rear full discs, trusses, howe steering kit and a real purrdy set of 39.5 swampers on trailready beadlocks..... just need the wife to finish her CPA or to win the lottery....