I am thinking about purchasing a winch while the prices are good during the holidays and I had a question about set up. Is a second battery required for a winch, or can you get buy with one battery?

As with most mods, I know there are other things I need to purchase to get this winch working; Mounting plate, accessories....... is there anything other than the ordinary I need to purchase?

I am thinking of the Warn 9.5ti.

Ran all my winches up to the last two vehicles on a single battery. 2 is better - not necessary.

Get the winch "accessories" kit that has the chain, snatch block, tree saver, etc - then pick up at least two more clevis' - they come in handy.

Although I have a Ramsey winch - I bought the Warn accessory kit.

you can run it with one battery. an alternator upgrade cant hurt, as that is what usually beats up the winch.
of course, we prefer the synthetic winch lines over the cable. if you can buy the winch with no cable, it will save you money in the long run.

I run my winch off of a single (OE) battery with a stock alternator. On a HEAVY pull, it will pull my electrical system down to 9.5 volts @2500rpm. So, a dual battery would be nice....but as mentioned, you can run one without it. Just be aware of the extra heat that is created when your amp draw spikes due to the voltage loss (my ew-9000 pulls just over 550 amps when the voltage drops that low).

Synthetic rope is cool...but damn is it expensive! I run steel until I can fit the synthetic in the budget. Do not be afraid to use it.....just take all the necessary precautions with it. A flying cable to the head would ruin your weekend. If you have the $$$, it is a good upgrade from the start.

Dukes can probably get you a good price on Outbacks winch acc kit. It is a nice collection of quality gear.

Awesome, Thanks guys for the info. Any other opinions and thought are much appreciated.

I have seen some great prices with PORC and with OffroadOverstock on the Warn Winches right now. I have to make my decision quickly though. Wish my Bonus would come sooner! (Hopefully I get one now that I said that!)

TJSUPE
if you look at your battery, it will more than likely be of less cranking amps than the winch manufacturer states. Do not run out an buy a new battery, the old one will work just fine untillyou kill it with the winch. My battery is rated 600 cca and Warn wants a 650 cca for my xd9000i, been running it for over 6 months now and it works just fine. Now if I used my winch like Nailer does, sometimes I wonder if he bought a jeep just so he could work a winch, then a biggger batttery would be needed immediately, as would a bigger altenator.
however, in 6 months time my winch has been unspooled areound 5 times
once for stretching
twice to pull something off trail
once to get myself out of a stupid nubes mistake
and once to pull a tree out of my back yard

for synth winch rope call John at winchline.com. tell him you love Iceland. tell him blue rubicons rock. tell him your from MJR... you might get a good deal. :D

Lots of things you can do to make winches happier electrically. I usually toss the factory cabling and run heavier high strand welding cable - but most folks don't have the tools to crimp the ends (no, you don't solder welding cables!).

If the winch doesn't come with a dedicated ground cable - that's probably one of the better improvements to make. Good conductors, straight to the battery, buy marine grade battery terminals and keep them clean.

>snip
...toss the factory cabling and run heavier high strand welding cable - but most folks don't have the tools to crimp the ends (no, you don't solder welding cables!).
>snip


Why not??
I soldered mine :(

No. 1 welding cable, custom installation with solonoids mounted under the hood.

Could there be enough heat to melt the solder? I've winched mine pretty hard just a couple of times is all, no problem yet. In fact, the cables don't even get warm. Could be a mess if the positive side came loose though. What am I missing?

x2

welding cable is worth the effort, I soldered mine, no probs so far.

Use the main battery posts for the winch and the side posts for the starter.

get all the goodies here:

http://www.wranglernw.com/

Can't get the penetration to make a really good connection with soldering, and if you could - you'd make the ends brittle. IF you could get the ends, you could exothermic weld them (Cadweld/Tectoweld) (very high heat, very short duration) - but those type connections aren't designed for moving/vibration style environments.

You may have gotten it to work, and if the cable is sized properly it might even not fail - but there are no industrial uses of high strand cabling of this type that would even consider a thermic weld process.

If you ever replace one of your cables - cut the connection apart with a band saw - after that I'll be more than happy to loan you my industrial crimper :)

Can't get the penetration to make a really good connection with soldering, and if you could - you'd make the ends brittle. IF you could get the ends, you could exothermic weld them (Cadweld/Tectoweld) (very high heat, very short duration) - but those type connections aren't designed for moving/vibration style environments.

You may have gotten it to work, and if the cable is sized properly it might even not fail - but there are no industrial uses of high strand cabling of this type that would even consider a thermic weld process.

If you ever replace one of your cables - cut the connection apart with a band saw - after that I'll be more than happy to loan you my industrial crimper :)

My terminals are sized to match the cable, and I fed in about 5" of flux core solder using a propane torch. I wonder where all the solder goes. It does make the last couple of inches of cable rigid so it felt like the terminals had made a good connection.

I think your test is a good idea though. I'll make one up and cut it apart and see how the solder penetrated the cable.

That's odd. The guys at McFadden-Dale industrial supply said that was the way to go. And I thought I read somewhere else that soldering was the best way to make up cables.

Thanks for the heads up! I sure wouldn't want them to fail out on the trail.

I am thinking about purchasing a winch while the prices are good during the holidays and I had a question about set up. Is a second battery required for a winch, or can you get buy with one battery?

As with most mods, I know there are other things I need to purchase to get this winch working; Mounting plate, accessories....... is there anything other than the ordinary I need to purchase?

I am thinking of the Warn 9.5ti.

I'm running the duel odyssey dry cell set-up. Check the specks of the dry cells vrs wet. Not sure if it polite to advertise the web page.

One thing I do know once the bat is low v the amps kick up and that burns the motor out of the winch. Burned a couple out in my earlier days.

Did have an ole 64 land rover my dad and I restored had a power take off from the transfer case to drive it. While pulling out a tree the cable broke and took out the front window ( we just restored the thing).

My terminals are sized to match the cable, and I fed in about 5" of flux core solder using a propane torch. I wonder where all the solder goes. It does make the last couple of inches of cable rigid so it felt like the terminals had made a good connection.

I think your test is a good idea though. I'll make one up and cut it apart and see how the solder penetrated the cable.

That's odd. The guys at McFadden-Dale industrial supply said that was the way to go. And I thought I read somewhere else that soldering was the best way to make up cables.

Thanks for the heads up! I sure wouldn't want them to fail out on the trail.

Solder is into the strands, just real hard to get uniform flow without destroying the insulation. "In the industry", I've never seen a soldered connection for cabling of this type - always a compression connection. As an example, the Central Office that your regular telephone service goes back to (or the Mobile Switching Center that your Cellular/PCS phone goes back to) runs on -48VDC. Most of the distribution runs are parallel 777 or 999 MCM cable (imagine the "wire" part of the cable being over an inch in diameter). You'll never find anything but a compression connector in that environment.

(Guess what I used to do for a living) :)

:hijack:

(Guess what I used to do for a living) :)
Male dancer?

:hijack:

Male dancer?

Nope, I don't dance :)

In a plant where I worked the guys had to terminate cables to carry 400A at 600V. They crimped the connections. However, the crimp tool was massive and we often performed pull tests to verify the crimp was correct.

All this is way beyond the average Jeeper, myself included. So I soldered using a butane torch and kept feeding in the solder. I wrapped a damp cloth around the insulation to reduce the damage caused by the heat.

If the joint can not carry the load it will overheat. Next time you do some serious winching check the temperature of the lugs.

In another application we checked joint integrity using optical thermometers while power was applied.

BTW when I replaced the stock power cables with "welding" cable, the cranking speed went up significantly.

In a plant where I worked the guys had to terminate cables to carry 400A at 600V. They crimped the connections. However, the crimp tool was massive and we often performed pull tests to verify the crimp was correct.

All this is way beyond the average Jeeper, myself included. So I soldered using a butane torch and kept feeding in the solder. I wrapped a damp cloth around the insulation to reduce the damage caused by the heat.

If the joint can not carry the load it will overheat. Next time you do some serious winching check the temperature of the lugs.

In another application we checked joint integrity using optical thermometers while power was applied.

BTW when I replaced the stock power cables with "welding" cable, the cranking speed went up significantly.

Greater cross sectional area is your friend - plus I would imagine that you upped the wire size at the same time. Less voltage drop that way (and the cables will heat less - VD increases as temperature goes up)

Greater cross sectional area is your friend - plus I would imagine that you upped the wire size at the same time. Less voltage drop that way (and the cables will heat less - VD increases as temperature goes up)

You bet! I think I did 4/0, complete overkill of course :duke:

It was as if I had installed a high-speed starter :yay:

We also had a superconductor that would carry 850 amps at 10 volts. The current rating at room temp was something like 2 amps!

IIRC, my winch cabling is #4/0 also (both leads) and i upgraded my solenoid wiring to #2. Had it all laying around from an "emergency" BDFB I had to build one weekend for a data center.

thanks for all of the information. I hope to get my new toy this weekend. I am going to install it as is and upgrade the wiring as $$ permits.

Well I received my new toy. I will install it this Sunday as is. Seems pretty simple to install after reading the manual.

One concern I had. (Warn 9.5TI) I dis-engaged the clutch so it would be in free spool and it seems to still be locked up. The winch is sitting in my living room and has no power source. I am hoping and assuming that once I hook it up to the jeeps battery and gets some juice the clutch will dis-engage so I can pull the wire.... Any Comments???? I also did this last night at midnight so maybe I missed something. ;)

????????

Power shouldn't affect the clutch, unless that warn is drastically different from any other I've had.

Well, I hope I hope I just missed something, Hopefully...... I dont want to send it back and wait for a new one.......Or maybe they can walk me through fising it over the phone.


UPDATE: Everything is working fine.

for synth winch rope call John at winchline.com. tell him you love Iceland. tell him blue rubicons rock. tell him your from MJR... you might get a good deal. :D

Jon and Thor Jonsson, they're from Iceland, you know.

Supe, wait a bit until Jon gets the combo line up on the site with the Safety Thimble installed. Then call me with money in hand. You know the drill.

btw, it was a pleasure having you over for the Matt thing. I'm figuring next time to make about 3 times as much salsa, 5 times as much guacamole and just have a diy taco bar.

Jon and Thor Jonsson, they're from Iceland, you know.

Supe, wait a bit until Jon gets the combo line up on the site with the Safety Thimble installed. Then call me with money in hand. You know the drill.

btw, it was a pleasure having you over for the Matt thing. I'm figuring next time to make about 3 times as much salsa, 5 times as much guacamole and just have a diy taco bar.

Thanks for the info, Blaine. And, yes I do know the drill ;)

The salsa was delicious. With the Salsa being so good, I know I missed out on the food. next time...

I installed the winch yesterday. No problems at all. Very happy with it. Cant wait to actually use it. I will post some pics probably tonight.

maybe a bit late, but I have to go with The fart man about the connection
first the wire end would have to be alful clean for the solder to work properly, the wire would have to be heated alful hot to get a good joint, and soildering a wire of that size takes special training
the press connector, which by the way they now have hand held hydraulic presses for that, would have a antioxident grease in it and be pressed with enuff preasure to insure a great connetion
I see a lot of equiptment failure that was caused by poor connections, and the bigger the wire the easier it is to get a poor connection
go with a press, overall you will be happier a few years down the road

I thought I would dig a little deeper into this subject. It appears that a good pressed fitting is better than a poor solder fitting and vice versa. There are proponents for both. However in the aerospace field it appears that crimping is the preferred method. It also appears that soldering has been used for many, many years, also with good success.

In the end I think I will test the security of my cables and if they are indeed weak I will source a crimping tool or buy custom made cables.

If anyone is interested, here's a plethora of information and opinion links:

Soldered Battery Cables
http://www.ih8mud.com/tech/battcable.php


Crimped Terminals:
posted 10-11-2005 01:21 PM ET (US)

A quote from the Ancor website, tech section:
www.ancorproducts.com/

"Do you recommend soldering or crimping terminals?
ANCOR recommends crimping vs. soldering. Per ABYC standards (E-11.16.3.7), “Solder shall not be the sole means of mechanical connection in any circuit”. Further, crimping provides a solid mechanical connection resistant to “cold joints”, breaking under fatigue and removes strain when using ANCOR double crimp nylon connectors."
The terminals are made to be attached to the wire by mechanical means. If you are using tinned marine cable, and the proper terminal end and crimper, there is no need to solder the connection.
Advise to crimp terminals:
http://www.mrsharkey.com/busbarn/electrics/chapt11.htm


A terminal and cable supply company that ONLY uses crimped cable ends:
http://www.thesolar.biz/Quick_Cable_Battery_cable.htm


Carcraft electrical: soldering vs. crimping battery terminals:
http://carcraft.com/howto/116_0507_top_10_electrical_fixes/


Custom made battery cables, crimped lugs, prices seem pretty reasonable:
http://www.custombatterycables.com/2-0_cables.htm


Technical wiring, crimping vs. soldering:
http://www.tycoelectronics.com/prodnews.asp?ID=443

Marine cabling, soldering. Comment on OMC recommending crimping of terminal ends:
http://groups.google.com/group/rec.boats/browse_thread/thread/eb2e6d436155f5a3/d5c68f9e7915a86a%23d5c68f9e7915a86a?sa=X&oi=groupsr&start=0&num=3

Experimental aircraft construction discussion, crimping vs. soldering wire lugs:
http://groups.google.com/group/rec.aviation.homebuilt/browse_thread/thread/d8cacda4b6a79f8b/3fee7d992463021b%233fee7d992463021b?sa=X&oi=groupsr&start=1&num=3

Another marine construction discussion. Crimping wins:
http://groups.google.com/group/rec.boats.cruising/browse_thread/thread/73b47112de6833ab/66e8a4618cf4cd82%2366e8a4618cf4cd82?sa=X&oi=groupsr&start=2&num=3

RV forum, discussion on making up battery cables, crimping vs. soldering:
http://www.rv.net/forums/index.cfm/fuseaction/thread/tid/16479346/gotomsg/16479399.cfm

Marine cable dealer of ‘soldered’ lug cables for marine applications:
http://www.pyacht.net/cgi-local/SoftCart.exe/online-store/scstore/h-sierra_battery_cables.htm?E+scstore

4x4 article on setting up dual batteries with soldered cable lugs:
http://www.off-road.com/chevy/reviews/hellroaring/

4x4 article on making battery cables with soldered lugs:
http://www.off-road.com/jeep/cherokee/xjprojects/toughenough/projte.htm

Another jeep winch install using soldered cable lugs on welding cable. I guess this is pretty common:
http://www.jedi.com/obiwan/jeep/winch.html

John Wiles National Electrical Code article on fine strand wire and mechanical (screw-type) terminals:
http://www.nmsu.edu/Research/tdi/public_html/pdf-resources/IAEI-1to2-05.pdf

Caltrans electrical wiring rules; crimping preferred over soldering:
http://www.dot.ca.gov/hq/eqsc/QualityStandards/Electric/Electric-02.htm

Alternative energy discussion of soldered vs. crimped wire lugs:
http://forum.altenergystore.com/forums/alternative_energy/616.html

Renewable energy sources, soldering is better than crimping:
http://www.purepowersolutions.com/infoBatts.htm

I thought I would dig a little deeper into this subject. It appears that a good pressed fitting is better than a poor solder fitting and vice versa. There are proponents for both. However in the aerospace field it appears that crimping is the preferred method. It also appears that soldering has been used for many, many years, also with good success.

In the end I think I will test the security of my cables and if they are indeed weak I will source a crimping tool or buy custom made cables.

If anyone is interested, here's a plethora of information and opinion links:

Soldered Battery Cables
http://www.ih8mud.com/tech/battcable.php


Crimped Terminals:
posted 10-11-2005 01:21 PM ET (US)

A quote from the Ancor website, tech section:
www.ancorproducts.com/

"Do you recommend soldering or crimping terminals?
ANCOR recommends crimping vs. soldering. Per ABYC standards (E-11.16.3.7), “Solder shall not be the sole means of mechanical connection in any circuit”. Further, crimping provides a solid mechanical connection resistant to “cold joints”, breaking under fatigue and removes strain when using ANCOR double crimp nylon connectors."
The terminals are made to be attached to the wire by mechanical means. If you are using tinned marine cable, and the proper terminal end and crimper, there is no need to solder the connection.
Advise to crimp terminals:
http://www.mrsharkey.com/busbarn/electrics/chapt11.htm


A terminal and cable supply company that ONLY uses crimped cable ends:
http://www.thesolar.biz/Quick_Cable_Battery_cable.htm


Carcraft electrical: soldering vs. crimping battery terminals:
http://carcraft.com/howto/116_0507_top_10_electrical_fixes/


Custom made battery cables, crimped lugs, prices seem pretty reasonable:
http://www.custombatterycables.com/2-0_cables.htm


Technical wiring, crimping vs. soldering:
http://www.tycoelectronics.com/prodnews.asp?ID=443

Marine cabling, soldering. Comment on OMC recommending crimping of terminal ends:
http://groups.google.com/group/rec.boats/browse_thread/thread/eb2e6d436155f5a3/d5c68f9e7915a86a%23d5c68f9e7915a86a?sa=X&oi=groupsr&start=0&num=3

Experimental aircraft construction discussion, crimping vs. soldering wire lugs:
http://groups.google.com/group/rec.aviation.homebuilt/browse_thread/thread/d8cacda4b6a79f8b/3fee7d992463021b%233fee7d992463021b?sa=X&oi=groupsr&start=1&num=3

Another marine construction discussion. Crimping wins:
http://groups.google.com/group/rec.boats.cruising/browse_thread/thread/73b47112de6833ab/66e8a4618cf4cd82%2366e8a4618cf4cd82?sa=X&oi=groupsr&start=2&num=3

RV forum, discussion on making up battery cables, crimping vs. soldering:
http://www.rv.net/forums/index.cfm/fuseaction/thread/tid/16479346/gotomsg/16479399.cfm

Marine cable dealer of ‘soldered’ lug cables for marine applications:
http://www.pyacht.net/cgi-local/SoftCart.exe/online-store/scstore/h-sierra_battery_cables.htm?E+scstore

4x4 article on setting up dual batteries with soldered cable lugs:
http://www.off-road.com/chevy/reviews/hellroaring/

4x4 article on making battery cables with soldered lugs:
http://www.off-road.com/jeep/cherokee/xjprojects/toughenough/projte.htm

Another jeep winch install using soldered cable lugs on welding cable. I guess this is pretty common:
http://www.jedi.com/obiwan/jeep/winch.html

John Wiles National Electrical Code article on fine strand wire and mechanical (screw-type) terminals:
http://www.nmsu.edu/Research/tdi/public_html/pdf-resources/IAEI-1to2-05.pdf

Caltrans electrical wiring rules; crimping preferred over soldering:
http://www.dot.ca.gov/hq/eqsc/QualityStandards/Electric/Electric-02.htm

Alternative energy discussion of soldered vs. crimped wire lugs:
http://forum.altenergystore.com/forums/alternative_energy/616.html

Renewable energy sources, soldering is better than crimping:
http://www.purepowersolutions.com/infoBatts.htm

There's more than a couple of us that know that crimping is preferred as the better connection. Unfortunately as you dig into it, you find that the tools used for acceptable crimps are not readily available, nor will the average user spend the money to buy a good tool when the bad tool is 2 bucks at harbor freight. But, the same can be said for soldered connections as well. Most DIYers don't have the skills or equipment to do a good soldered connection.

There was or still is a company in San Clemente many years ago that made very high end audio cables for home stereo. They had a nice page on their website that was an education in crimping over soldering for the long grain pure copper and pure silver speaker cables.

In it they explained that a connection that deformed the parent metal to the point of providing an oxygen free connection was superior in transmitting current.

I also had the opportunity to work with Otto who was the head electrical engineer at an aircraft company in Texas at one time and he taught us that no soldered connections were allowed in the aircraft they produced. Only crimped and only with good crimpers.

As I've indicated before (on this, and many other forums :) ), I have yet to find an _Industrial_ situation that allows or uses anything but crimped connections. I can tell you from personal experience (25+ years as a specifying engineer) that the Telecom, Data Center and Critical Power industries wouldn't even consider it - ever.

BTW - if you're in SoCal, I have a crimp tool I don't mind loaning out on occasion.

As I've indicated before (on this, and many other forums :) ), I have yet to find an _Industrial_ situation that allows or uses anything but crimped connections. I can tell you from personal experience (25+ years as a specifying engineer) that the Telecom, Data Center and Critical Power industries wouldn't even consider it - ever.

BTW - if you're in SoCal, I have a crimp tool I don't mind loaning out on occasion.

You're preaching to the choir as one who cuts off the nylon insulation from good quality brazed seam connectors and uses adhesive lined double wall heat shrink. That also lets me use the dimple side of the crimpers.

There's more than a couple of us that know that crimping is preferred as the better connection. Unfortunately as you dig into it, you find that the tools used for acceptable crimps are not readily available, nor will the average user spend the money to buy a good tool when the bad tool is 2 bucks at harbor freight. But, the same can be said for soldered connections as well. Most DIYers don't have the skills or equipment to do a good soldered connection.

There was or still is a company in San Clemente many years ago that made very high end audio cables for home stereo. They had a nice page on their website that was an education in crimping over soldering for the long grain pure copper and pure silver speaker cables.

In it they explained that a connection that deformed the parent metal to the point of providing an oxygen free connection was superior in transmitting current.

I also had the opportunity to work with Otto who was the head electrical engineer at an aircraft company in Texas at one time and he taught us that no soldered connections were allowed in the aircraft they produced. Only crimped and only with good crimpers.

Blaine, I see you like the technical stuff :)

That pretty well sums it up. Within all of those URL's are commercial aviation, experimental aircraft, commercial electrical, transportation, marine, and specialty automotive experts that all say the same thing. The 'oxygen free connection' you mention, or a weather-proof seal for any terminal, is a common element throughout those links as well. Almost all recommended the use of heat-shrink tubing to seal out moisture and other impurities. And a lot of them mention proper stress-relief and mechanical supporting of any connection. They should not be under tension. One of the other authorities, John Wiles, had a good whitepaper on using proper terminals for fine-wire cabling. Generally he cautions the use of mechanical connectors with that type of cable due to the fragile nature of the strands. He also mentions that standard crimping terminals are not satisfactory for it, that specialty terminals made for fine-wire are recommended. Unless the flexibility is paramount for a given application, standard cabling was recommended for it's durability.

This cable supplier in AZ has good prices on commercial quality swaged termals in custom made lengths applicable to our use for winches and batteries. Seems to me I paid about $5 a foot for bulk welding cable and that's about what he charges for made-up cables.
http://www.custombatterycables.com/2-0_cables.htm

This subject seems to be debated over and over throughout all sorts of enthusiast forums, and the backyard mechanics (me, for example) have used soldering with success, but the guys that have worked in commercial and industrial environs have all learned that a mechanical connection for cable terminals are superior. When your life depends on it, like for aircraft and such, it becomes pretty damn important. One fellow had lost 2 friends in experimental aircraft crashes due to their use of un-tried processes. For us, we could be out in the middle of nowhere with failed equipment, or worse yet, a catastrophic fire due to failed wiring.

Blaine, I see you like the technical stuff :)

That pretty well sums it up. Within all of those URL's are commercial aviation, experimental aircraft, commercial electrical, transportation, marine, and specialty automotive experts that all say the same thing. The 'oxygen free connection' you mention, or a weather-proof seal for any terminal, is a common element throughout those links as well. Almost all recommended the use of heat-shrink tubing to seal out moisture and other impurities. And a lot of them mention proper stress-relief and mechanical supporting of any connection. They should not be under tension. One of the other authorities, John Wiles, had a good whitepaper on using proper terminals for fine-wire cabling. Generally he cautions the use of mechanical connectors with that type of cable due to the fragile nature of the strands. He also mentions that standard crimping terminals are not satisfactory for it, that specialty terminals made for fine-wire are recommended. Unless the flexibility is paramount for a given application, standard cabling was recommended for it's durability.

This cable supplier in AZ has good prices on commercial quality swaged termals in custom made lengths applicable to our use for winches and batteries. Seems to me I paid about $5 a foot for bulk welding cable and that's about what he charges for made-up cables.
http://www.custombatterycables.com/2-0_cables.htm

This subject seems to be debated over and over throughout all sorts of enthusiast forums, and the backyard mechanics (me, for example) have used soldering with success, but the guys that have worked in commercial and industrial environs have all learned that a mechanical connection for cable terminals are superior. When your life depends on it, like for aircraft and such, it becomes pretty damn important. One fellow had lost 2 friends in experimental aircraft crashes due to their use of un-tried processes. For us, we could be out in the middle of nowhere with failed equipment, or worse yet, a catastrophic fire due to failed wiring.

Anyone that wishes to prove to themselves the danger of a poor electrical connection should loosen the ground terminal on their battery to where it's sitting there but not tight. Then do some winching and watch the battery terminal melt. Ask me how I know it will do this.

Actually this is one debate I dislike intensely because even good folks operate under the myth that been passed off as truth about soldered connections.

I've even been in custom hot rod shops where the owner was bragging about soldering every connection under the dash on a car they built and how long it took him. How do you get a guy like that to understand that "soldering" ain't everything it's cracked up to be?

>snip
BTW - if you're in SoCal, I have a crimp tool I don't mind loaning out on occasion.

Jeff,
Thank you for the offer. I would like to re-make my winch cables. My main power lead is a commercially made battery cable, but the cables from my solonoid box to the winch are made up from welding cable. I would like to replace those or at least put new ends on them if there's enough length to work with. I used the tray under brake booster for my solonoid pack. It's a clean installation but now I'm worried about the cables.

BTW, is anyone familiar with a power cutoff that's heavy duty enough for a winch cable connection? I think I saw a knife-switch somewhere rated for 400amps. Most battery switches are not rated high enough. I would really like to have a master disconnect at the battery without having to undo the bolt on the post terminal.

Jeff,
Thank you for the offer. I would like to re-make my winch cables. My main power lead is a commercially made battery cable, but the cables from my solonoid box to the winch are made up from welding cable. I would like to replace those or at least put new ends on them if there's enough length to work with. I used the tray under brake booster for my solonoid pack. It's a clean installation but now I'm worried about the cables.

BTW, is anyone familiar with a power cutoff that's heavy duty enough for a winch cable connection? I think I saw a knife-switch somewhere rated for 400amps. Most battery switches are not rated high enough. I would really like to have a master disconnect at the battery without having to undo the bolt on the post terminal.


http://www.bluesea.com/dept.asp?d_id=18015&l1=7459&l2=7492