Just paid too much for this high-miler w/ flintstone floorpans... it's a 92 Yj w/ a 2" shackle, 32" procomp tires on steel wheels (last owner was cheap too) with cheap shocks. Frame looks good (thats what counts.... right??). I plan to swap meet the daylights out of this thing for bumpers, lights, recovery... but looking for ideas on how to stuff a 33" or 35" tire (mebe spring over?). I have a NP205 lying around (Ok.. Burried in a 67 chev) and a 2" body kit (amongst the junk the seller offloaded on me). Where should I start? should I try a sterling 8.8 retrofit for my rear axle? Can I scavenge scrapyard parts to make a front coilover? Any input (and I mean any!)

SOA is a good way to get 6" of lift for not much money. $ will be required to resolve the unintended consequences: drive line angle, steering, brake lines, axle wrap, ebrake.

Alternatively you can gain clearance by cutting the fenders. Stuff each wheel into the fender by driving up a ramp, or using a towmotor then draw around the tire.

Join your local 4wd club, you will score all kinds of goodies that people want to get rid of.

I've read that Tera flex has a new kit for SOA with a monoleaf fiberglass spring. Any input? wonder how it would hold up to the cold climate. I've been told that my chev NP205 is in reverse rotation to my jeep. Anyone know of a good kit that might "reverse the reverse"? Any sugestions on steering correction for a DIY SOA conversion?

SOA steering.

You will need a dropped pitman arm. The tie rod will be OK. The prob is the drag link: it will most likely want to occupy the same space as the PS spring.

You can buy a bracket that connects the drag link directly to the knuckle. Or you can fabricate your own. The drag link will need stretching btw.

I bought one from http://www.jb4x4.com/products.htm which I broke first time out :duke: JB sent me another one which I beefed up with extra meat and I milled the top of the knuckle for a better fit. Surprisingly, it has held up for over a year of 35" tires on 4+ trails.

SOA steering.

You will need a dropped pitman arm. The tie rod will be OK. The prob is the drag link: it will most likely want to occupy the same space as the PS spring.

You can buy a bracket that connects the drag link directly to the knuckle. Or you can fabricate your own. The drag link will need stretching btw.

I bought one from http://www.jb4x4.com/products.htm which I broke first time out :duke: JB sent me another one which I beefed up with extra meat and I milled the top of the knuckle for a better fit. Surprisingly, it has held up for over a year of 35" tires on 4+ trails.

It really puts a smile on my face when I see your posts these days... :yay:

It really puts a smile on my face when I see your posts these days... :yay:

I wonder why???

http://matmrosko.com/lakeshorevillas/images/smiles/banana.gif

33's? THe YJ will fit 32's with a stock suspension. It'll rub like nobody's business, and you can break stuff, but they'll fit. Anyway, with the shackle lift, all you'd need to do is put some inexpensive lift, like maybe body spacers or something, and the 33's should fit no problem. (I think)
The SOA is nice. WIth it you can fit like 35's I think. I'm new to Jeeps...so a definite answer isn't my thing. Um...yeah, like you said it's the frame that counts. Body work is easy... just make sure you use a MIG welder that has a really low power rating...or a TIG...cause they'll burn straight through the metal (Found this out the hard way on my fender). The 8.8 is a really common swap inot the YJ...and I don't think it's all that hard. I'd say find one from an explorer (The explorer did come with an 8.8 right?) and use those, cause they have rear disc brakes.

How did you determin your shock length on the soa? How much trimming could I do b4 looking hacked, and how does a soa ride with stock springs? for that matter, do they flex worth a darn?

[QUOTE=l that hard. I'd say find one from an explorer (The explorer did come with an 8.8 right?) and use those, cause they have rear disc brakes.[/QUOTE]

Yea, 95 to 01 exploders use the disc brakes, but i've heard reports that if you don't weld the tubes to the pumpkn, the spots tear out and some major carnage can result. I may have found one of my customers (Towing and recovery co.) thats parting out two that fit the bill... I'm shooting for about $100 bucks or less. Most yards want between $225 and $275 for an assembly w/ brakes. I plan to modify the existing ford equiptment so all I'll need to buy should be new longer u-bolts. Anyone know what size I need??

How did you determin your shock length on the soa? How much trimming could I do b4 looking hacked, and how does a soa ride with stock springs? for that matter, do they flex worth a darn?


If nothing else changes add approx 6" to the shock length. The SOA lift is made up od the axle tube dia, the height of the new perch and the height of the spring pack or 3ish+1ish+1ish.

Many jeeps looked hacked 'cos the owner did a crappy job. If you draw a cut line carefully and take your time it should be OK. SOA rides the same as SUA if you keep the springs.

Flex is fair, if you get rid of the track bars and the sway bar.

Yea, 95 to 01 exploders use the disc brakes, but i've heard reports that if you don't weld the tubes to the pumpkn, the spots tear out and some major carnage can result.

....same goes for the D35.

How about traction ideas? who likes what (Air locker, posi, spool, "Ected", pull cable...) and what is a good gear ratio for 35" tires that fit an 8.8 and d35? Speaking of the topic, whats a good solution to the axlewrap after an soa conversion?

How about traction ideas? who likes what (Air locker, posi, spool, "Ected", pull cable...) and what is a good gear ratio for 35" tires that fit an 8.8 and d35? Speaking of the topic, whats a good solution to the axlewrap after an soa conversion?

Too many bloody questions. ;)

Detroit = strong and reliable. No freakin O rings to leak :yay:

I think you mean an 8.8 and a D30 - 4.56 or 4.88

You will need a ladder bar. Build it strong, v strong. The Skyjacker 5th link is crap.

I can send you a pic when I get home .... sent from MJR mission control :duh: :duke: :tams:

Too many bloody questions. ;)

Detroit = strong and reliable. No freakin O rings to leak :yay:

I think you mean an 8.8 and a D30 - 4.56 or 4.88

You will need a ladder bar. Build it strong, v strong. The Skyjacker 5th link is crap.

I can send you a pic when I get home .... sent from MJR mission control :duh: :duke: :tams:

The pic would be greatly appreciated! any one who has a cusom setup or reason to beat down a build to order, let me know!... sorry, I'll try to chill on the q's:hammie:

Just scored a 8.8 for $150 from my customer. I have yet to retrieve it but I've got official dibs!:thumbs_up :thumbs_up :thumbs_up

I'll need an SYE for this SOA I guess... any thoughts on this new shorty vs for np231's? should I bite the bullet and have a local fab out the drive shafts, or should I work with Tom Woods?

I got an atlas heavy duty SYE and tom woods driveshaft this past april. The people at Tom Woods are great and very helpful. Ahter putting the SYE and new driveshaft on I still had a vibration. I called them and they helped me figure out the right degree of shim to run to end the vibration. My experience with them was great.
:wave:

yea tom woods is the way to go, but i mean if you want kinda jeep but worth it, i like the lift from rancho, 4.5" you can fit 35s with trimmage and it looks badass PLUS its still spring under and it crawls pretty badass


peace

Justin

I remember a tec article on petersen's about soa vs sua but couldn't find it again. I think the long and short of it was an soa meant more leverage on the pack allowing axlewrap. Sua left the clearance to be less desirable, but axlewrap under controll. Am I wrong on this?? I've been looking at the option of doing a sua 4" kit w/ my 2" shackle (shackle lift is more like 1.5"). Any oppinions?

Rusty's off road is offering a military wrap kit 4" sua w/ kydex or kevlar pads and yada yada yahh.... anyone have thoughts on a military wrap or rusty for that matter?

I remember a tec article on petersen's about soa vs sua but couldn't find it again. I think the long and short of it was an soa meant more leverage on the pack allowing axlewrap. Sua left the clearance to be less desirable, but axlewrap under controll. Am I wrong on this?? I've been looking at the option of doing a sua 4" kit w/ my 2" shackle (shackle lift is more like 1.5"). Any oppinions?

Rusty's off road is offering a military wrap kit 4" sua w/ kydex or kevlar pads and yada yada yahh.... anyone have thoughts on a military wrap or rusty for that matter?

You are essentially correct: SUA less clearance, SOA more axle wrap.

I went SOA and tried to resolve the axle wrap issue. It took a few tries but I think I got it figured out. I still owe you a pic of my ladder bar...

Both solutions can work well :wave:

OTOH if I was to do it again I would probably go 4 link - can't believe I said that :sarah:

As I was whacking my head on the floor board earlier today from below (tranny's detached and moved) while fidigeting with my clutch, a thought occurred to me... my 2" shackle gives me @ 1.5- 1.75" on my suspension. everything's running fine except for the lacking of gears. The 32" procomps look good in there, but with a sawzall lift... think I could trim enough to stuff a 33" in there for now while I follow the never ending trail of "Incrementalism". I figure I have nothing to loose, I've got a spare fender already, and a new aftermerket would cost nill for me... and a local yard sells tubs for $600. Anyone think I'm nuts?

Here's my preliminary "stage one" plan... what do you think?

4 trxus mt 33x12.5 R15 tires from interco @ $159ea
re gear the ford 8.8 to a 4.56 @ $200
ected or other selectable for 8.8 @ $300- $600
re gear D30 to 4.56 @ $150
sway bar disconects @ $70
Speedo cal for the cops @ $190

I'd like to include staun inner bead locks, but thats $800 more than I already don't have...

Thoughts, suggestions, feelings, knockdowns???

future stages would include a 4-4.5" sua lift or soa conversion, sye, cv driveshaft, same tires in a 35x12.5 R15...

Speedo calibration is as simple as changing a $10 gear

Speedo calibration is as simple as changing a $10 gear
good fyi, the $190 is the electronic fancy dancy unit. I like the idea of saving $180!

Good luck finding TrXus MTs, apperently theyre on back order till like May from Interco cause they just shut down theyre Mexico plant or something like that. I had to have mine shipped from Utah and the guy at 4 Wheel Parts could only find them in Georgia and Hawaii and they each only had one set and that was in early Dec. And the guy at Discount Tire couldnt get any. But i just got them put on today and theyre bad ass. good luck though :D
-Allen

Good luck finding TrXus MTs, apperently theyre on back order till like May from Interco cause they just shut down theyre Mexico plant or something like that. I had to have mine shipped from Utah and the guy at 4 Wheel Parts could only find them in Georgia and Hawaii and they each only had one set and that was in early Dec. And the guy at Discount Tire couldnt get any. But i just got them put on today and theyre bad ass. good luck though :D
-Allen

Are they as quiet as they say they are? let me know how you like em'!

Yeah theyre WAY quieter then my MT/Rs. I went on a trail the other day and so far i like them but i havent really tested them out on the rocks aired down. but ill let you know. They do look pretty sweet so thats a plus.

swbooking- what size did u get and what rim do you run? Lemme know how well they hold the bead. They do look sick eh? Gotta hand it the the company w/ flame pattern side walls tho...

I do 8.8 swaps all the time. My personal reccomendations are to change all of the bearings and seals while you have it out! They are cheap, and every single 8.8 I've done to date has had marginal bearings in it. Exploder owners do not believe in changing their diff fluid....

Also, get someone to weld the housing to the tubes. Do NOT weld completely around tubes, though! This WILL shrink the tube and weaken the area even more. I put a 2" weld on the front and rear of the housing and I do it in 8 passes, each side. ie weld 1" on the front left, then weld 1" on the rear right, then 1" on the left rear, etc. Keep bouncing back and forth, and welding parallel to the last. Do this on all 8 passes on the tube, not quite touching the pumpkin. Then let it all cool for a bit, and do it all again, this time on top of your last pass to the pumpkin. Doing this allows everything too cool and keep from warping. It also gives you a very fat bead for lots of strength, but with a LOT less heat.

Also, while you have the axle apart, you will be stripping it completely down to nothing and pressure washing the entire housing, right? Of course you were planning on it.. ;) Anyway, look inside the pumpkin where the carrier goes. Then look in the areas where the carrier bearings are. On one side you will see one, maybe two drain holes. On the other side you will see none and if you are lucky, two. Make sure each side has an upper and lower drain. Just duplicate the one that is already there with a die grinder. This will allow sufficient lube/cooling to the axle bearings, and at the same time allow air move around inside the housing and breath. Not doing this can cause your wheel seals to leak, especially if you have an air actuated locker! If the drains are already there, make sure they have no cast flashing blocking them.

Do not use the 1" aluminum spacers. I don't care what you read or hear, they are dangerous and WILL break eventually. Plus, they are expensive. My suggestion is get you two sets of 7/16" spacers from Mr. Gasket. That will give you 7/8" on each side, and they will not break up on you. Also, do not use the stock axle studs if you use spacers, get you some 3" ones from ARP and cut them to length.

If you are very talented you can swap out the axle bearings with Ford 9" Torino ones, and ditch the C clips completely (it's still SF). That's a lot more work, and if you have to ask how, then don't attempt it. Just giving you ideas.

Also, if you want a wider stance, you can get an 8.8 out of a older Expedition (newer ones have the 10.25 instead) instead of Exploder, put the Torino ends on it, and have an axle the same width as your present axle.

My Ford 8.8's strength is vary comparible to a SF D60, and I woudl put it up against a SF D60 any day. I have several 8.8's out there running over 40" tires, and believe me, they aren't driving them to the mall! Oh, and obviously I sell everything you need to do your swap - right down to the e brake cables and new speedo gear! :D Anyway, if you have ANY questions, I will always answer them!

wanehartewig- not from lack of ability, but from not have examining both parts yet, did you have to mill the race or something comprable to fit the 9" bearings, or is it more involved than that?

Thanks for the overwhelming wealth of knowledge here, it is greatly appreciated!

Also- will the disc package fit an older 8.8?

wanehartewig- not from lack of ability, but from not have examining both parts yet, did you have to mill the race or something comprable to fit the 9" bearings, or is it more involved than that?

Thanks for the overwhelming wealth of knowledge here, it is greatly appreciated!

Also- will the disc package fit an older 8.8?

In short, you just cut off the old ends and weld on the new ones and then have new custom axles made, either in entirety or take some 9" ones and cut/respline them - it all depends on your width and if you use off the shelf stuff or not. Having access to a lathe for all of this is a definate plus! Two RH 74-75 Bronco axle (29.75 long) work great here, and will just about center the diff. ;) FYI TJ axle is 60" wide, mount to mount....See where I'm going here with that info? :D

IMHO the weak area of the 8.8 is the housing and wheel bearings, more so the bearings than the housing. The housing issues are easy to fix, the wheel bearing issue is more involved. The easiest fix is to put some 1050, or better yet, 1541h axles in. You don't want 4140 or 4340, as they are too soft for the side load that the bearings will create and wear very quickly. The 1541h is very strong, nearly as strong as 4340, but it can handle side loads a lot better, where 4340 handles torsional loads better. Make sense? A pair of Yukon axles are perferct here, and the pair is only $210 (PM me for better pricing;) )

Explorer 8.8 drum and disc axles are different, so if you have one or the other, you can't switch. However, the housings are the same (I'm 99% sure anyway, I've never done this before or heard of someone that has), so simply swapping the disc brake kit ($379) and disc brake axles into your drum axle is all you need to do.

I have 33X12.5s and run a 15X10 rim. So far they've held the bead without a problem. But i would have much rather had 15X8s but i got mine on a deal so its all good. They work fine and i havent lost a bead yet.

I have 33X12.5s and run a 15X10 rim. So far they've held the bead without a problem. But i would have much rather had 15X8s but i got mine on a deal so its all good. They work fine and i havent lost a bead yet.

I think my wheels are 15x8, but I have to measure to be sure. They don't stick out too far so I'm just assuming. what don't you like about your x10 wheels?

Detroit = strong and reliable. No freakin O rings to leak :yay:

I can send you a pic when I get home .... sent from MJR mission control :duh: :duke: :tams:

Aston- is your detroit selectable? how's the day to day traveling with your locker on pavement? Wasup on your traction setup?? :confused:

I think my wheels are 15x8, but I have to measure to be sure. They don't stick out too far so I'm just assuming. what don't you like about your x10 wheels?
Well since i chopped my fenders all up, with the X10 wheels, they stick out REALLY far, im surprised i havent gotten pulled over for it yet. (crossing fingers...) and with the wider rim, it is easier to blow a bead but like i said so far i havent, but then again i stay around 15psi when i go out. Oh and if you have stock rims im pretty sure their 15X7s

Well since i chopped my fenders all up, with the X10 wheels, they stick out REALLY far, im surprised i havent gotten pulled over for it yet. (crossing fingers...) and with the wider rim, it is easier to blow a bead but like i said so far i havent, but then again i stay around 15psi when i go out. Oh and if you have stock rims im pretty sure their 15X7s

nah, I think the kid b4 me got a package out of summet with these cheap but pretty good looking craigar steel wheels and they fit the 32x (11.5 or 12.5)...brainfart...tires pretty nicely. They dont stick out badly so I guess I'll run w/ it for now. My whole thing on this build is going for mechanical bling, not show n' shine. I'll eventually black out most everything and once the pretty red maaco job gets a beatin' I'll swap the tub and paint it OD w/ military brown& grey + a bit more black.... I think b4 the mice destroyed the box from the spare wheel I caught 15x8 somewhere.

Yeah, in that case they are most likely x8s. Sounds like your Jeeps gonna be sweet. Good luck!
-Allen

I may be aquiring a 84' f150 2x4 soon. I'm buying it for the cab so I can get my desel f250 on the road, but the carbed 302 runs and drives. Has anyone here ever done a 302 swap in?? if its a standard, would the trans be useful?

I remember a tec article on petersen's about soa vs sua but couldn't find it again. I think the long and short of it was an soa meant more leverage on the pack allowing axlewrap. Sua left the clearance to be less desirable, but axlewrap under controll. Am I wrong on this?? I've been looking at the option of doing a sua 4" kit w/ my 2" shackle (shackle lift is more like 1.5"). Any oppinions?

Rusty's off road is offering a military wrap kit 4" sua w/ kydex or kevlar pads and yada yada yahh.... anyone have thoughts on a military wrap or rusty for that matter?

here is soa with RE 1.5" springs..http://i42.photobucket.com/albums/e305/jeeper89/ph4.jpg

Aston- is your detroit selectable? how's the day to day traveling with your locker on pavement? Wasup on your traction setup?? :confused:

Ooops...I have been asleep at the switch.

I have Detroits F and R. Detroits lock and release automatically. On the road they bang and pop occasionally but it doesn't bother me. They also torque steer, again this doesn't bother me: my arm has learnt to anticipate a shift and corrects automatically.

Traction bar...ah yah...the flash on my digcam is FUBAR and I was too lazy to take pics on the trail the other day. I'll try harder this weekend. The traction (or ladder) bar comprises of a bar mounted to the axle...blah, blah, blah - i'll take the friggin' pic.

Ooops...I have been asleep at the switch.
Traction bar...ah yah...the flash on my digcam is FUBAR and I was too lazy to take pics on the trail the other day. I'll try harder this weekend. The traction (or ladder) bar comprises of a bar mounted to the axle...blah, blah, blah - i'll take the friggin' pic.

Haha, sounds like u need a new camera! FUBAR... ain't heard that in a while. I also havent heard of tourque-steer. I can assume from the name, but I hate to make an ass of "U & ME". Just how bad is it? How reliable are the lockers... they ever just unlock on the trail?

jeeper89- I think it's you I read the buildup on, but I forget what tire size u use on that SOA. PS- cool site, but I had to highlight the text just to read it!

Has anyone heard of or seen first hand these tera-flex mono leafes made of fiber glass?? I'm slightly skeptical, but my interest is piqued. Anyone actually take the gamble on them yet?

Haha, sounds like u need a new camera! FUBAR... ain't heard that in a while. I also havent heard of tourque-steer. I can assume from the name, but I hate to make an ass of "U & ME". Just how bad is it? How reliable are the lockers... they ever just unlock on the trail?

jeeper89- I think it's you I read the buildup on, but I forget what tire size u use on that SOA. PS- cool site, but I had to highlight the text just to read it!

Has anyone heard of or seen first hand these tera-flex mono leafes made of fiber glass?? I'm slightly skeptical, but my interest is piqued. Anyone actually take the gamble on them yet?

In my experience Detroits are highly reliable: no o rings, solenoids, switches, pumps, fittings or hoses to go wrong.

As I understand it, Detroits lock up when they detect a difference in wheel speed and torque is applied to the drive shaft. So if you take a corner at constant speed nothing happens. If you take a corner and jump on the gas or let off the gas they may lock/unlock with a bang and a lurch. Having said that they can also let out a bang for no apparent reason.

Torque steer is when the vehicle changes direction when torque is applied or removed from the drive train. FWD rice rockets from the 80s would torque steer like an SOB. In this case the axleshafts were not the same length so one would wind up more than the other. This would cause the front of the vehicle to change direction or "steer." This prob has largely been eliminated by hollow shafts and such.

If you gass up a RWD vehicle and dump the clutch the passenger tire will break traction and spin. This is particularly bad on leafsprung vehicles. If you add a locker the passenger tire will still lift but it can't spin. Now the DS wheel tries to drive round the PS wheel. This feels like the Jeep is trying to make a sharp right turn. A little correction to the left and it runs straight. No biggie.

OK...so I finally took pics of my torque bar or ladder bar if you want.

But I can't figure out how to insert images from my MJR gallery. :homer:

Balls. Take a look in my gallery. I'm sure someone :duh: will tell me how it's done. I seem to remember a button to insert gallery image, oh well.

http://www.myjeeprocks.com/forums/gallery/files/5/0/3/TB02.jpg

http://www.myjeeprocks.com/forums/gallery/files/5/0/3/TB01.jpg

http://www.myjeeprocks.com/forums/gallery/files/5/0/3/TB03.jpg

I did it HAH!!

Awsome. The axle dosn't twist on the axis of the bar setup? looks good, is that a "custom" fab or did u find that?

Awsome. The axle dosn't twist on the axis of the bar setup? looks good, is that a "custom" fab or did u find that?


The axle can not twist in reaction to the torque applied to the wheels.

The axle is still free to move up and down and front to back. F to B is very important with leaf springs and shackles.

Everything is custom. The axle plates are 1/4". The tubing is .120 wall DOM.

Most? of the shelf kits have a shackle at the cross member to allow F to B movement. I had a shackle originally but it got mashed. Then I went to a simple slip joint with a bronze bush. It wasn't HD enough and I bent it :homer: This is the 3rd and final (so far) design. I just sleeved the tubing, w/o a bushing, a little grease and it's happy.

Some folks have suggested that the bar works better on the passenger side, which makes sense to me. But it was too late for my install.

that is a cool design aston.

that is a cool design aston.

Thanks :wave:

The cross member did not start out that shape - it got molded by passing rocks :duke: Now it is out of the way but it prevented service to the transfer case. So I cut it and added flanges.

It eliminates 90% of wheel hop.

I just sleeved the tubing, w/o a bushing, a little grease and it's happy.

Is the top bar the only one that slips or does it slip at the part that the upper and lower create the "Y" aft of the crossmember?

Where'd you get that spiffy tank??

Is the top bar the only one that slips or does it slip at the part that the upper and lower create the "Y" aft of the crossmember?

The slip joint is in the top bar 6" back from the cross member.

Where'd you get that spiffy tank??

That is an RCI tank from Summit 7" x 17" x 30"

That was a lot of work.

That is an RCI tank from Summit 7" x 17" x 30"

That was a lot of work.

When you are off camber, say on a water fall or etc, do you run out of gas? What about when you are low on fuel? I really like that. Most of the stretches I see/done have moved the tank into the passenger compartment or above the diff. Why was this so hard?

When you are off camber, say on a water fall or etc, do you run out of gas? What about when you are low on fuel? I really like that. Most of the stretches I see/done have moved the tank into the passenger compartment or above the diff. Why was this so hard?

I have not had any fuel pick up issues, and I have been trying :yay:

The tank shape is far from ideal so I tend to keep it topped up before hitting the trail. I made up a dual pick up arrangement with valves that close when they see air.

Hard stuff:
Internal fuel pump
Electrical connections
Venting scheme
Remote fill neck

I have not had any fuel pick up issues, and I have been trying :yay:

The tank shape is far from ideal so I tend to keep it topped up before hitting the trail. I made up a dual pick up arrangement with valves that close when they see air.

Hard stuff:
Internal fuel pump
Electrical connections
Venting scheme
Remote fill neck

Got any more pics of it and the install?

Why did you go with a internal fuel pump? And not external with a regulator?

What about the shape you did not like? It looks like it goes right in there like a shoe horn!

you don't strike the tank? I diddn't see a skid plate, but can't tell if its just seriously recessed between the rails.

So the front bar is a short shaft and the Y part is a one piece w/ the rear tubing for the top of the axle welded into the "slip" tubing? Just trying to understand the mechanics. It makes sense to me but I can't completely discern the actual arrangement from here.

Got any more pics of it and the install?

Why did you go with a internal fuel pump? And not external with a regulator?

What about the shape you did not like? It looks like it goes right in there like a shoe horn!

Yes.

I tried an external pump (Mallory) and it sucked. First it seemed to lose prime then it started leaking so I dumped it. I wanted an external pump for easy access but I was led to believe that for fuel injection systems working at high angles of attack(!) in-tank pumps work better.

Armed with that advice I installed a Venom pump which required custom mounting brackets, electrical connections and plumbing but it has worked flawlessly. A little noisy perhaps but I can live with that.

The regulator sits on the fuel rail so is unaffected, but I changed it just for good measure.

What else....oh yeah...

If you think about it, a fuel tank wants to be narrow and deep not wide and shallow. The tank fits great but it is on the shallow side.

you don't strike the tank? I diddn't see a skid plate, but can't tell if its just seriously recessed between the rails.

So the front bar is a short shaft and the Y part is a one piece w/ the rear tubing for the top of the axle welded into the "slip" tubing? Just trying to understand the mechanics. It makes sense to me but I can't completely discern the actual arrangement from here.

Bloody Hell!! :rolleyes: :eek:

Is this clear enough? :D :D

http://www.myjeeprocks.com/forums/gallery/files/5/0/3/TB04.jpg

The tank is tucked up inside the frame rails, I would be having other issues if it got whacked.

Got any more pics of it and the install?

Why did you go with a internal fuel pump? And not external with a regulator?

What about the shape you did not like? It looks like it goes right in there like a shoe horn!

This shows the original Mallory pump. It is still around here somewhere!

http://www.myjeeprocks.com/forums/showthread.php?t=6264

Bloody Hell!! :rolleyes: :eek:

Is this clear enough? :D :D

The tank is tucked up inside the frame rails, I would be having other issues if it got whacked.

Much better! :)

Alright, to anyone... whats the best (most cost effective) engine mod you've done to your YJ? How about drivetrain? where do you think the bucks are best spent??

best bucks spent for me were lockers... they make the difference:D

Bucks are best spent on gasoline getting seat time. In a perfect world, "first jeeps" would be delivered with the hood locked, tack welds on all the "changeables"

Put 10 tanks of fuel through it in 4WD - you'll answer the question for yourself. :)

Bucks are best spent on gasoline getting seat time. In a perfect world, "first jeeps" would be delivered with the hood locked, tack welds on all the "changeables"

Put 10 tanks of fuel through it in 4WD - you'll answer the question for yourself. :)

Wise words from an old fart... :D
point well taken.

Yes.

I tried an external pump (Mallory) and it sucked. First it seemed to lose prime then it started leaking so I dumped it. I wanted an external pump for easy access but I was led to believe that for fuel injection systems working at high angles of attack(!) in-tank pumps work better.

This is the exact pump I was thinking..But also have their regulator, dumping the Jeeps. Was the pump originally above or below the bottom of the tank? I had an electric on my boat, and until I put it below the bottom of the tank, I had fuel problems and it was very (Holley blue) noisy.

If you think about it, a fuel tank wants to be narrow and deep not wide and shallow. The tank fits great but it is on the shallow side.


Exactly why in my first post I asked how the fuel pickup was going on the trails :D I've thought about doing something like this, but with two or even three shallow fuel cells under the rear seat. Then connect them all with a couple of small holes. That way you would have to be standing on end for a long time before all of the fuel left filtered through each tank.

Either way... I like your setup! It definately got the wheels turning!!!!!!

Where do you add fuel???? It sounds like in your last thread, that you have an external standard filler (stock style)?

This is the exact pump I was thinking..But also have their regulator, dumping the Jeeps. Was the pump originally above or below the bottom of the tank? I had an electric on my boat, and until I put it below the bottom of the tank, I had fuel problems and it was very (Holley blue) noisy.


Exactly why in my first post I asked how the fuel pickup was going on the trails :D I've thought about doing something like this, but with two or even three shallow fuel cells under the rear seat. Then connect them all with a couple of small holes. That way you would have to be standing on end for a long time before all of the fuel left filtered through each tank.

Either way... I like your setup! It definately got the wheels turning!!!!!!

Where do you add fuel???? It sounds like in your last thread, that you have an external standard filler (stock style)?

I installed the Mallory pump very carefully. The pump rotor was below the bottom of the tank, the lines were formed so as not to stress the pump etc...The pump would either not run, lose prime, or leak.

If I was going to do it again, I would spend the money on a custom tank with baffles and a sump. I had no idea how much time and energy I was going to invest in making an off the shelf fuel cell work.

I made a remote filler neck that connects to the tank through the floor. The fill flange fits between the drivers door and the rear wheel. I might have a pic somewhere.

The final headache was venting. To cut a long story short I capped off the vent in the tank. I installed a fill vent (1/2") from the tank fill flange to the top of the fill neck. I then installed a running vent (1/8") from the fill neck to the vapor canister.

Alright, to anyone... whats the best (most cost effective) engine mod you've done to your YJ? How about drivetrain? where do you think the bucks are best spent??

Engine mods: none. Just get new belts, fluids, hoses, rotor, cap, thermostat, blah blah and call it good.

Finally finished the clutch job (in this sucky weather Ct.'s having) and I think the 1st and 2nd cyncromesh is showing it's age. Is it sheaper to do a new cyncro on an old trans or can I scavenge a new gear box out of a 91' cherokee w/ a 6cyl and stick? Also, could I utilize the cherokee's front end and make it fit my close to stock yj.... with fabrication of course. Anyone done this yet? anyone have ideas?

Finally finished the clutch job (in this sucky weather Ct.'s having) and I think the 1st and 2nd cyncromesh is showing it's age. Is it sheaper to do a new cyncro on an old trans or can I scavenge a new gear box out of a 91' cherokee w/ a 6cyl and stick? Also, could I utilize the cherokee's front end and make it fit my close to stock yj.... with fabrication of course. Anyone done this yet? anyone have ideas?

NV3550 (Rubicon) or even NV4500 would be a much better swap.

As long as both axles are HPD30's, there shouldn't be any other issues to account for... If they aren't, then you will have driveline length (too short/long) issues...

Finally finished the clutch job (in this sucky weather Ct.'s having) and I think the 1st and 2nd cyncromesh is showing it's age. Is it sheaper to do a new cyncro on an old trans or can I scavenge a new gear box out of a 91' cherokee w/ a 6cyl and stick? Also, could I utilize the cherokee's front end and make it fit my close to stock yj.... with fabrication of course. Anyone done this yet? anyone have ideas?

Depending on how bad it is you might want to try Red Line MTL90. It is formulated to make old synchros work better.

Depending on how bad it is you might want to try Red Line MTL90. It is formulated to make old synchros work better.

Exactly. While on the topic, what kind of fluid did you put in it/or what is in it now? Non foaming 30w is a good choice.

Exactly. While on the topic, what kind of fluid did you put in it/or what is in it now? Non foaming 30w is a good choice.

Good question, and good suggestions! I'm unfortunately unsure on nearly all questions, so I probably should go ahead with a gear oil change. I'll look into redline, but I've never heard of it. Where do you usually find it?

Good question, and good suggestions! I'm unfortunately unsure on nearly all questions, so I probably should go ahead with a gear oil change. I'll look into redline, but I've never heard of it. Where do you usually find it?

I am highly sceptical of any quick fixes but I tried MTL in my '92 AX-15 and it made a significant difference.

You can normally find it in speciality Hot Rod, Racing, Performance stores.

Good question, and good suggestions! I'm unfortunately unsure on nearly all questions, so I probably should go ahead with a gear oil change. I'll look into redline, but I've never heard of it. Where do you usually find it?

..Yeah, definately check that out because gear oil (75w) will make you wish you were walking! ..very hard shifting..

you can find it here.
http://www.synlubes.com/redline/gearoil.html

search google:wave: