View Full Version : Skid Plates
king4wd 11-11-03, 12:43 AM We bashed up our gas tank skid pretty good at PVD and our crossmember/ skidplate has been dinged for a while. Any good replacement ideas for these key parts? I know Tomken and Kilby market gastank skids, but what about the belly pan?
jmbrowning 11-11-03, 02:42 AM I think I am going to go with Nth Degree Mobility's Tummy Tucker (http://www.nthdegreemobility.com/tt.htm). I saw there products at the Pomona Show. Pretty slick stuff. No body lift is "required" for the 1.25" drop, but it does require a little BFH massage of the underbody to get everything up there.
Supposedly they have an oilpan skid available that integrates with the crossmember. They also have a very interesting driveshaft skid (http://www.nthdegreemobility.com/glider.htm) that looks nicer than a piece of angle iron welded to the differential.
I even picked up a 10% discount from the Pomona Show. The only thing holding me back is that I am debating whether I will go taller than 33's because if I do, I'd like to go long arm and that might mean a special crossmember.:rolleyes: Decisions, decisions.
FWIW, I don't think the completely flat crossmembers gain all that much given the mickey mousing you have to do to the drivetrain angles.
most belly-up skids require a body lift, motor mount lift and exhaust modifications (nth degree being the only exception, by use of BFH). You will definately need an sye, cv driveshaft and adjustable arms for pinyon angle adjustment.
the kilby/4xdoc gas tank skid has served me fine, although some have had problems due to the flat bottom. I guess there should be a cutout for the fuel pump or something. Every once and awhile my fuel gauge reads full when I know it's not.
my $.02
king4wd 11-11-03, 08:05 PM Thanks guys! I fgured I'd have to go with a Kilby or Tomken Gas skid, but I didn't know about n'th degree. This looks like a plan, especially since I was looking at a 1" body lift anyway:D I'll get a pic posted of the damage as soon as I can.
qwiksilver 11-11-03, 10:36 PM Originally posted by king4wd
Thanks guys! I fgured I'd have to go with a Kilby or Tomken Gas skid, but I didn't know about n'th degree. This looks like a plan, especially since I was looking at a 1" body lift anyway:D I'll get a pic posted of the damage as soon as I can.
Let me know how it goes. I am looking into some underside armor too. I am still learning and that equals some dings and bangs. :rolleyes: Someone called them "Beginner Bumps" last weekend. :P
king4wd 11-12-03, 02:04 PM Here's some pics of the trail damage from PVD.
http://www.imagestation.com/album/?id=4288603879
Check out the gas tank:D
qwiksilver 11-12-03, 02:22 PM Originally posted by king4wd
Here's some pics of the trail damage from PVD.
http://www.imagestation.com/album/?id=4288603879
Check out the gas tank:D
owowowow
You musta been havin' fun.
I have to get under mine and do a real assessment. I know I have a pea sized dent in my oil pan that could have been a puncture if I had hit it just a little harder.
I do not plan to raise my TJ up all that high and will have to really do my homework to get the right parts for my Jeep.
Dukes69 11-12-03, 04:42 PM You cant go wrong with a 4x doctor/kilby skid. I have a 4xDoc on mine and I like it.
NAILER341 11-21-03, 10:38 PM i have the kilby and like it.. or you could go with something similar to tams gas tank skid.. which i believe is a cfej fab design... some pretty cool stuff :wave:
edited by :tams: :P
king4wd 11-22-03, 02:52 AM Yeah the Kilby looks like the way to go. I thought Tomken offered the same skid, but Kilby's is 50% thicker (3/16" vs. 1/8"). Truck master also offers a pretty beefy aluminum skid 5/16" thick for about the same price as the Kilby. I'll have to do some comparison research there. I debated pulling the current skid off and hammering it straight, but it doesn't just unbolt. After consulting the Haynes manual- the whole tank must be disconnected and removed to remove the skid- I found I didn't want to deal with possible emissions foul-ups so I'll leave the factory skid as is for now.
JeepGal 11-22-03, 11:28 AM Originally posted by king4wd
Yeah the Kilby looks like the way to go. I thought Tomken offered the same skid, but Kilby's is 50% thicker (3/16" vs. 1/8"). Truck master also offers a pretty beefy aluminum skid 5/16" thick for about the same price as the Kilby. I'll have to do some comparison research there.
Kilby and FourXDoctor both give you an extra inch clearance too...what Id do for an extra inch :P.....sigh....(for my Jeep!)
I debated pulling the current skid off and hammering it straight, but it doesn't just unbolt. After consulting the Haynes manual- the whole tank must be disconnected and removed to remove the skid- I found I didn't want to deal with possible emissions foul-ups so I'll leave the factory skid as is for now.
I totally understand that...but that being said....
We took off my gas tank skid and pounded out the dents, reinforced it with extra steel, and put it back on. When we put it back on, we were really tired, and broke the little "t" shaped connector that ran to the emissions system, and mickeymoused something together for it. When I returned home, I went to the dealer and bought the part, dropped the gas tank and skid by myself, replaced the connector , and put it back up.
It really was a PIA, but with the right tools...(TWO floor jacks AND alot of patience) its not impossible. If you decide to do it, just take your time, and do it methodically. Dont forget to unscrew the filler housing and shove the filler entrance into the hole while you work...its too difficult to do after you try to drop the tank.
I think the guys were shocked when I told them I dropped the tank myself...:D
Tam :)
king4wd2 11-24-03, 02:22 AM Originally posted by JeepGal
It really was a PIA, but with the right tools...(TWO floor jacks AND alot of patience) its not impossible. If you decide to do it, just take your time, and do it methodically. Dont forget to unscrew the filler housing and shove the filler entrance into the hole while you work...its too difficult to do after you try to drop the tank.
I think the guys were shocked when I told them I dropped the tank myself...:D
Tam :)
The thing is taking time to do this puts me (Sandra) out of a vehicle. The neon is Tom's to drive back and forth to work, but the Jeep is mine to take Megan to Girl Scouts and whatever. Waiting to get a ride to go places or to do errands around here is like waiting for Christmas to come and then go and come back again. Tom would have to get up real early on his day off to do it. :D If I didn't have a two year old to keep an eye on I would do the job myself :D Afterall, I don't mind getting my hands all greasy and oily and nasty!! If I can change a power supply in a computer I can do this. :D Right now, I think Tom is waiting to get the right tools to do this. Thanks for the advice Tams!
PondScum 11-26-03, 09:29 PM You might want to check out Rev 1 (http://www.rev1crawlers.com) I plan on lifting my whole drivetrain up 3"
Basically i'm looking at:
Flat Skid: $395
3" Moter Mount Lift: $55
Side Six Body Mounts: $195
Total of $645 for a belly-up done the right way.
king4wd 11-27-03, 01:10 AM While that is a really good way to go, Pondscum. I won't be able to swing the extra $700-800 for the required drivetrain mods (SYE and CVshaft) to allow for that. So for now I'll stick with a Kilby for the gastank and a BFH for the crossmember:D
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