hit oilpan pretty good, anything I should be checking?

**Jeeperator** · 05-21-12, 03:52 PM

Steel or aluminum? 1/4" or 3/16" Did you get the lowpro mount? if not your tc will be pushed up into the body more and your driveshaft angle will definatly change compared to the stock skid. What did you end up paying?

**aw12345** · 05-21-12, 05:05 PM

One thing you really want to check before you take it down the trail again is that the rear driveshaft doesn't bind at full droop.
Jeep rear end of the ground, rear axle hanging from the shocks (with shocks fully extended). Doing a bellyup can push the driveshaft past it's maximum clearance at full droop and cause it to bind, which is not a good thing

**daniel_buck** · 05-22-12, 07:48 AM

1/4" aluminum and the lowpro mount (I already had body lift and motormount lift).

I'll try and check for the driveshaft binding. Just jack the body up high enough to get the rear tires off the ground and uncompress the suspension, then see if I can free-rotate the tires? If indeed there is binding, what is the solution? Limit straps? This wasn't something I had thought about or read anyone having problems with. Hopefully I don't have any problems

I already have a tomwood double cardian driveshaft on the rear.

**aw12345** · 05-22-12, 05:37 PM

Originally Posted by daniel_buck

1/4" aluminum and the lowpro mount (I already had body lift and motormount lift).

I'll try and check for the driveshaft binding. Just jack the body up high enough to get the rear tires off the ground and uncompress the suspension, then see if I can free-rotate the tires? If indeed there is binding, what is the solution? Limit straps? This wasn't something I had thought about or read anyone having problems with. Hopefully I don't have any problems

I already have a tomwood double cardian driveshaft on the rear.

A center limit strap would do the trick and yes just raise the body and frame up till the axle hangs just on the shocks and see if the driveshaft turns freely

**daniel_buck** · 05-22-12, 09:10 PM

perfect, as soon as I have time to adjust the rear control arms, I'll give that a shot!

**daniel_buck** · 09-10-12, 07:48 AM

Originally Posted by aw12345

A center limit strap would do the trick and yes just raise the body and frame up till the axle hangs just on the shocks and see if the driveshaft turns freely

How would one go about mounting a center limit strap on a stock D44 that has no truss?

**inVERt'D** · 09-10-12, 11:00 AM

Wrap a nylon strap around it and tie it off with a square knot. Or, if you're really desperate, you could weld on a tab or two.

**daniel_buck** · 09-10-12, 11:14 AM

just wrapping a strap around it seems kinda ghetto, hah! I'll get a tab and weld it on there, just to the very top of the pumpkin, that's the best place? What do I attach it to on the frame side, I haven't looked under there yet to see what's there.

**curtis** · 09-10-12, 11:41 AM

You could make a tab with two or three holes in it and use longer front cover bolts. There is also some bolt holes in the block down by the oil pan that you can use. The way I did mine was to weld a tab on the tube of the axle at the middle of the axle

**Materdaddy** · 09-10-12, 11:50 AM

Originally Posted by curtis

You could make a tab with two or three holes in it and use longer front cover bolts. There is also some bolt holes in the block down by the oil pan that you can use.

This is the method I've seen before: a tab that uses a few of the top cover bolts after replacing with longer ones.

**daniel_buck** · 09-10-12, 12:08 PM

This would be for the rear axle.

I was wondering about using the diff cover bolts as a mounting point

**inVERt'D** · 09-10-12, 12:09 PM

Curtis' suggestion is pretty good, but the more cover bolts the better--I wouldn't feel safe with only two.

You can't weld it with 110. Even with 220 you'd really want to use preheat with that machine. It's that old cold lap problem again. A decent stick welder would work, and there are plenty of people around with those.

I was kinda kidding about the square knot, but some 3" wide, single layer nylon strap would be tie-able and sufficiently strong. The only likely issue (besides the appearance) would be abrasion from rocks and even from the axle itself.

Curtis, I believe he's thinking of the rear axle now.