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Thread: Beau's Jeep

  1. #31
    Subscriber Jeeperator's Avatar
    Blue 97 tj wrangler sport
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    Adding more aluminum this weekend lol. Going to swap out that heavy brass copper 3 row radiator for this new 2 row all aluminum one. I figure since I am doing a auto tranny swap in the future might as well get a lighter more efficient aluminum one for extra cooling duties. Got a good price on ebay but the part number they sent me is for a 1996 and i have a 97 hopefully it fits ok. I dont see why not as they are all pretty much the same. Heres some pics:
    Welds are not too bad.






    I have the aw-4 trans just need to clean it up and drill the holes to reclock the 241 TC(Thanks again RAT for letting me and Curtis borrow your clocking ring). I am tracking down and waiting on some parts to show before I begin. I also figured out how to make the trans shift without a TCU using the factory shifter and a 2 switches (1 for OD and 1 for lockup). It will shift like a manual valvebody which means it physically has to be shifted up and down. I guess youd call it a manualauto or a semiauto. I like semiauto.
    Last edited by Jeeperator; 05-11-12 at 02:53 PM. Reason: add pic

  2. #32
    Parkin' w/the world's best Jeeps mrchips's Avatar
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    Are you installing an electric fan, mechanical fans generally don't work with aluminum radiators
    06 UNL RUBI 4.5 LA,KM 2-35's/ 4.88 BEADLOCKS/SKIDS/WINCH
    07 AT CHASER TRAILER

  3. #33
    Subscriber Jeeperator's Avatar
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    All factory radiators in tj's are aluminum with plastic end caps and all use a mechanical fan as far as I know. Fact is a expensive $200+ electric fan only puts out maybe 3500cfm at the most. The factory fan is supposed to put out 6000 cfm at 2200 rpm. Ill stick with the cheaper mechanical cheaper and probably does a better job of movin air not to mention its quieter lol. Noisey electric fans are no bueno.

  4. #34
    Just Empty Every Pocket Tumbleweed13's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Jeeperator View Post
    Got a good price on ebay but the part number they sent me is for a 1996 and i have a 97 hopefully it fits ok. I dont see why not as they are all pretty much the same. .
    No wranglers were made in 96. They sold surplus 95's for a year, til the start of the TJ in 97. Are the rad mounts for a YJ and a TJ the same, then?
    It was like that when I got here.

  5. #35
    Subscriber Jeeperator's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Tumbleweed13 View Post
    No wranglers were made in 96. They sold surplus 95's for a year, til the start of the TJ in 97. Are the rad mounts for a YJ and a TJ the same, then?
    Now that I think of it, I never have seen a 96 wrangler. I think I read the rad part# was for years I think 91 -96 so who knows? It fits fine other than the wrong thread pitch on the fan shroud inserts. Other than that it seem to be 10* cooler at idle and now stays about 195-200 while going up the 15 from the 210 to sierra with the ac on. Before it would surely hit at or over the 210 mark*. The real test is to go up a long steep incline like going up to big bear and see what it does. I allready see a difference the aluminum is making over the copper brass 3 row. Ill post pics of the installed product later.

  6. #36
    Subscriber Jeeperator's Avatar
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    Heres some installed pics: Disregard the dirty engine the dirt is keeping it from leaking oil lol

    Last edited by Jeeperator; 05-13-12 at 08:45 PM. Reason: spelling

  7. #37
    Parkin' w/the world's best Jeeps vwtipeii's Avatar
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    Looks really good Beau! I did the same swap a year ago. Mine runs around 180 even when crawling in the desert. I have the stock mechanical fan too. You should be plenty "kool"

    B

  8. #38
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    Quote Originally Posted by vwtipeii View Post
    Looks really good Beau! I did the same swap a year ago. Mine runs around 180 even when crawling in the desert. I have the stock mechanical fan too. You should be plenty "kool"

    B
    Hows the temp when climbing the steep grades ? My heep with 3 row copper radiator would get to about 230 when climbing up the road to bigbear, It wouldnt over heat but it definatly ran hotter than I liked it too especially with the ac on. That the big test to see if it will hang.

  9. #39
    "formerly great88" Mitch's Avatar
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    Beau,

    The radiator looks very nice. I put the same one in the Great88 a few years back and it always worked well with the mechanical fan. Is it a "Custom Aluminum Radiators" unit from Arizona?

    Mitch

  10. #40
    Subscriber Jeeperator's Avatar
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    Nope its a Silla from Compton imported from China most likely. Paid ~$145 shiped to my door. Bought it from classic radiator on ebay. I like the fact it has a Lifetime warranty and its all aluminum. The reason I didn't get a aluminum the first time around was because i didnt like the plastic tanks. Too many bad experiences with those exploding ,leaking and cracking. Plastic aluminum are good but I would change it out well before the 100,000 mark just for a peice of mind. The replacement will probably come from china too unless you buy a dealer unit for ~$300 probably made in made in mexico. Actually I dont know where they are made but you know what I am saying.

  11. #41
    Parkin' w/the world's best Jeeps vwtipeii's Avatar
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    I drove to Big Bear twice the last two weeks...stayed right at 180 during the entire climb.... actually a touch shy of 180. RPM's in the 2200-3000 range. My water pump is a year old as well.

  12. #42
    Subscriber Jeeperator's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by vwtipeii View Post
    I drove to Big Bear twice the last two weeks...stayed right at 180 during the entire climb.... actually a touch shy of 180. RPM's in the 2200-3000 range. My water pump is a year old as well.
    Thats good to hear my hopes are up. You must have a 180* t-stat or lower?
    I have a 195* I think.

  13. #43
    USMC 6324/6042 6spdYJ's Avatar
    92 YJ With a Rubicon complex
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    One thing to consider if yours tends to run hot is a flow-kooler disc. It's basically just a thin stainless disc that rivets onto the impeller in your water pump. It just fills in the gaps between the vanes. This will fight cavitation as well as give a slight boost in pressure. Summit carries them, but anyone with some steel, a compass and a drill can make one.
    God forgives, rocks don't
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  14. #44
    Subscriber Jeeperator's Avatar
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    I honestly think it ran hot because not enough airflow across the copper radiator. Idle and low speed it was fine. Just got hot under a heavy loads. Honestly after I took the front winch bar off it seemed to run cooler also. That thing definatly was blocking airflow at highway speeds.

  15. #45
    Parkin' w/the world's best Jeeps vwtipeii's Avatar
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    As we all know i am "no expert" about much except how to lose money for my clients in the stock market

    I will say though that I have read an article in JP about 8 months ago regarding the guys buying a black repod YJ for $1000. The previous owner put in a new aluminum radiator but the Jeep ran hot... the JP guys just put in a new fan clutch assembly and the Jeep cooled right down. Long story short you may want to look into the current status of your fan clutch... if it isn't pulling enough air through when you need it I don't care how many rows or what material your radiator is made out of you are going to run hot...

    http://www.jpmagazine.com/techarticl...sis/index.html

    I am still looking for the article.. but the one above looks good..
    Last edited by vwtipeii; 05-14-12 at 08:26 PM.

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