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  • turbo diesel Willys!

    Making a new thread for this, since it's not really "home made" it's really just a huge bolt-on project. haha

    Anyway, I've got the motor, drove it home in the back of the TJ Waiting on the flywheel, adapter plate and motormount kit from Overland Diesel, as well as the the turbo, turbo manifold, bell housing, slimmer oil pan, and a few other items from various places.

    I just picked up an engine stand from Tom (Black&Tan), got it on there last night. Thanks Tom! No photos of that yet, but here's the motor It's a 2.2L Kubota V2203. Same displacement, and very similar size and weight as the flathead l-head motor that's in the willys now. With the turbo, it should make plenty of torque

    Starter motor is shot (I think) so I've got a new starter on order, hopfully when I get the starter, the engine will fire right up. I figured out how to prime and bleed the fuel lines.

    I'm probably going to be taking lots of photos, because even though it's pretty much all bolt-on, I'm sure I'll have tons of questions




    Last edited by daniel_buck; 04-22-13, 08:06 AM.
    [COLOR="#FF0000"]R[/COLOR]edneck [COLOR="#FF0000"]D[/COLOR]riveway [COLOR="#FF0000"]F[/COLOR]ab
    www.DanielBuck.net - www.DNSFAIL.com - www.FurnitureByBuck.com

  • #2
    This should be fun to watch. What's up with the alternator? Looks a little charred.
    holes = cowbell

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    • #3
      yea, I'm not sure, haha! It's got some sort of corrosion on it that the rest of the engine doesn't seem to have. The rest of the engine is just dirty. I'm gonna clean it up good before it goes into the jeep. Might spray it OD green, I don't know.

      I've already removed the alternator, and the beastly bracket that it was attached to. They will probably be in the way of the turbo, the turbo manifold I'm using has the turbo towards the front of the engine. I'm either going to try and re-use the alternator that's in the willys now, or get a new one.
      Last edited by daniel_buck; 04-22-13, 10:04 AM.
      [COLOR="#FF0000"]R[/COLOR]edneck [COLOR="#FF0000"]D[/COLOR]riveway [COLOR="#FF0000"]F[/COLOR]ab
      www.DanielBuck.net - www.DNSFAIL.com - www.FurnitureByBuck.com

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      • #4
        Good luck with this. If ya need anything and I can help let me know.
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        • #5
          I'm sure I'll have questions as I go along First task is to get the engine running, when the new starter arrives, I'll bolt that in there, and then figure out which wires on he fuel shut-off solenoid need to go where.
          [COLOR="#FF0000"]R[/COLOR]edneck [COLOR="#FF0000"]D[/COLOR]riveway [COLOR="#FF0000"]F[/COLOR]ab
          www.DanielBuck.net - www.DNSFAIL.com - www.FurnitureByBuck.com

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          • #6
            fan and turbo manifold arrived On the advice of Overland Diesel, I went with the forward mounting turbo manifold, instead of the mid-mounted manifold, apparently it will fit in the engine bay better that way.

            I'll run mechanical fan at first, because it's the easier setup. But I may eventually go to an electric fan.

            [COLOR="#FF0000"]R[/COLOR]edneck [COLOR="#FF0000"]D[/COLOR]riveway [COLOR="#FF0000"]F[/COLOR]ab
            www.DanielBuck.net - www.DNSFAIL.com - www.FurnitureByBuck.com

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            • #7
              The new starter arrived today, and it spins just fine! But I can't seem to get any fuel to the injectors. Somewhere either something is going wrong, or I'm not doing something right. I've primed the fuel lines with the hand pump and screwed it back down into place, but I can't get any fuel to the injectors when I turn the starter motor.
              [COLOR="#FF0000"]R[/COLOR]edneck [COLOR="#FF0000"]D[/COLOR]riveway [COLOR="#FF0000"]F[/COLOR]ab
              www.DanielBuck.net - www.DNSFAIL.com - www.FurnitureByBuck.com

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              • #8
                What kind of fuel solenoid does it have?
                If it's screwed into the pump take the pintle out. If it's a plunger style solenoid move the arm the pump against the spring tension and see if it will fire

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                • #9
                  The fuel shut-off solenoid looks like this.

                  I actually have it removed right now, just to make things simpler, as there's a mechanical shut-off lever, I was just planning on using that to shut the engine off for the time being.

                  From what I've been told, the engine will run with the solenoid removed, and I see a video of one running that doesn't have the solenoid there, but maybe that's not the case for my engine (if there are variations, I'm told there were two types of solenoids), maybe it needs to be there and properly powered for fuel to flow? When I pump the hand pump, I get fuel coming out of the return line, but that might not indicate that fuel has access to the injector lines.

                  Last edited by daniel_buck; 04-25-13, 06:25 AM.
                  [COLOR="#FF0000"]R[/COLOR]edneck [COLOR="#FF0000"]D[/COLOR]riveway [COLOR="#FF0000"]F[/COLOR]ab
                  www.DanielBuck.net - www.DNSFAIL.com - www.FurnitureByBuck.com

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                  • #10
                    Ok, I've been cracking the fuel lines at the injectors, and I'm finally seeing fuel spill out of them. Not sure if all the air is out yet or not, but at least I have fuel at the top of the engine now Guess there was alot of air in there, and I wasn't seeing any fuel come out last night.

                    I'm worried about the starter though, I'm having to crank a lot to bleed these lines, I'm only cranking for 5-10 seconds at a time. I wonder if there a compression release feature on this engine? So it wouldn't have to fight the compression of the engine just to bleed the lines? I've heard alot of diesels have that.
                    [COLOR="#FF0000"]R[/COLOR]edneck [COLOR="#FF0000"]D[/COLOR]riveway [COLOR="#FF0000"]F[/COLOR]ab
                    www.DanielBuck.net - www.DNSFAIL.com - www.FurnitureByBuck.com

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                    • #11
                      This was my process for bleeding, I'd start with the #1, back off on the injector line nut, crank for about 10 seconds (which gives a few squirts of fuel), then tighten the nut back up and move onto the next one.

                      I did this whole process for all 4 injectors about 2 times this morning. I gave it a rest so I didn't burn up the starter motor. I'll go through this again tonight. Think it's ok to just crack open all the lines? I was worried about cracking all the lines, thinking I might introduce more air into the lines, as I wouldn't be able to quickly snug up all of them at once. Or is that not a problem, air getting back in before snugging them up?

                      http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2hHQcE9D7U8
                      [COLOR="#FF0000"]R[/COLOR]edneck [COLOR="#FF0000"]D[/COLOR]riveway [COLOR="#FF0000"]F[/COLOR]ab
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                      • #12
                        You can crack them loose, one thing, injection pumps of the style you have, do often have a small spring loaded valve in the banjo bolt that holds the fuel return line on the injection pump. It could help to crack that one loose while using the primer pump.
                        If you get fuel at the injectors crank it m till it runs. It should roar to life

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                        • #13
                          Well, it starts! :-D

                          It must have been either the old cables, or the fact that I was using jumper cables inbetween the cables and the battery. I put some short 2 gauge cables on there directly to the battery, and it fired right up! I think the 750cca battery will be just fine, t he starter was very fast, sounded quite a bit faster than the starter on my TJ.

                          it fired! - YouTube


                          I fired it a few times after the video, and I couldn't get it to idle, it shuts down imediatly (doesn't bog down, just just down instantly, just like in the video). I tried it with the throttle open all the way, 1/2 way, and closed. Same results every time.

                          WELL, at least it starts, haha! I'm happy! I'm sure I'll find out why it wasn't idling, probably user error. Next step is to start putting on the rest of the parts, oil pan, exhaust manifold & turbo when they arrive, and all the rest of the stuff when they arrive.
                          [COLOR="#FF0000"]R[/COLOR]edneck [COLOR="#FF0000"]D[/COLOR]riveway [COLOR="#FF0000"]F[/COLOR]ab
                          www.DanielBuck.net - www.DNSFAIL.com - www.FurnitureByBuck.com

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                          • #14
                            Nice. It may still be starving for fuel so it won't idle. Enough to crank but not enough to idle. But it sounds good when it does run.
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                            • #15
                              possible that the fuel lines still have air in them? after a few revolutions enough fuel is in the cylinders to fire, but the air in the lines can't provide enough fuel pressure to keep it running? Sounds plausible to me, I'll give it a try!.

                              I'll bleeding some more tomorrow morning Should go much faster, now that I can get the starter motor really turning

                              It does start very strong sounding every time. Not a slow start, or a start that sounds like it's about to die.

                              And that rattling sound, that's the lift chains that are rubbing against the flywheel, I've moved them so that they don't rub anymore. I probably should have checked that, I didn't even think about any cables or chains, or anything else that might come loose and rub against the flywheel when it roars to life. It shakes alot more than I thought it might.
                              Last edited by daniel_buck; 04-25-13, 09:23 PM.
                              [COLOR="#FF0000"]R[/COLOR]edneck [COLOR="#FF0000"]D[/COLOR]riveway [COLOR="#FF0000"]F[/COLOR]ab
                              www.DanielBuck.net - www.DNSFAIL.com - www.FurnitureByBuck.com

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