Mr. Green's Surgery

[dr.dirty]

Looks like you are having fun mike!

[Mike]

I need some advice.

I don't want to cut my DOM and find out that I need to have a longer piece for the track bar. Is there a good mock-up material for this? I am using 1" ID tube adapters if that makes a difference.

[aw12345]

Tack angle iron too it or some square tubing thin wall that's cheap. Pretty much anything that's sturdy enough to flex the axle and you can tack it to your tube adapters will do

[Mike]

Tack angle iron too it or some square tubing thin wall that's cheap. Pretty much anything that's sturdy enough to flex the axle and you can tack it to your tube adapters will do

10-4. Thanks.

[dr.dirty]

Any new updates?

[Mike]

Any new updates?

Yes! Sorry to disappear, but as I had been warned, the front is a real head scratcher. Especially considering that this is the first time trying anything like this.

Backing up to what feels like months ago, I got the frame joint to work like I wanted, but I have only installed one side until I am certain of where the steering box is going to land:


Since then, I have been moving the various mounts around trying to determine the best placement to get the clearance that I need. Kurt (RAT) has stopped by a couple of times and has been a great help each time. I think that I am getting close now. At full bump on both sides, the placement is shaping up like this:


I am pretty sure that I can keep the grill in the OEM position as long as I change to a shorter radiator which I have already purchased. But if not, it isn't a big deal.

I think that I have the steering box indexed to the location that I want it:


I don't plan to use the original mount, but it makes a great tool for locating and positioning.

I am going to attempt to make my own Pittman Arm so that I can get the angle that I am after. To do so meant that I had to finally breakdown and buy a drill press. I went cheap and I already have had to work on it and change the belts, and that's only after an hour of use! Can't recommend the Harbor Freight model:


Even so, I have the first attempt at the Pittman Arm ready for shaping and clean up:


I'll try to do a better job of updates going forward.

[dirtman13]

I have the tapper bit if you need it.

[aw12345]

Should have tried to cut the holesaw hole at an angle. bY THE WAY TRY TO MOVE THE TIEROD AS HIGH AS YOU CAN, YOU'LL BE GLAD YOU DID AS TIME GOES BY. Has to feel good to see a lil light at the end of the tunnel

[Russ Chung]

Looks good. I like the way the LCA mounts on the axle are placed. Mine are the same way. It's nice not to get hung up on anything. Coming along great.

Joe/Mike,

Something has been bothering me ever since Joe made the observation in post #128 that the lower control arm mounts on the rear axle are placed to give you more obstacle clearance. It seems to me that the placement of the LCA mounts in front of the rear axle instead of below the axle does not allow the control arms to resist axle wrap when you step on the gas. This would cause your rear axle to rotate, changing the pinion angle and increasing the stress on your u-joints and rear driveshaft. Am I missing something or is it just not enough of a problem to worry about??

Russ

[aw12345]

Is a non issue, all it means is that the uppers on the frame side need to be higher/ poke through the tub floor

[Mike]

Is a non issue, all it means is that the uppers on the frame side need to be higher/ poke through the tub floor

Right. I didn't have to push through the floor because I started with a 1 inch body lift. But, I did have to modify the floor pan for the travel needed.



Tonight I drilled out the mounting tubes from the original frame mount for the steering box.

Then I used my indexing marks and measurements to drill the holes for the lower part of the steering box mount. Instead of cutting plates and building a new mounting box, I found that I could use a section of the 2x3 frame tubing and just attach it below the new frame:


Unfortunately, I also found that the extra play that I left in the large hole of the Pittman arm to allow for the angle to be welded in was too much since the hole saw seems to have a bit of a wobble on the mandrel. I guess that I will be cutting a new one soon.

[aw12345]

Weld the piece to something at the angle you want then drill the hole with the holes saw, with patience you can holesaw a hole in thick plate at an angle or simply twist the drill table if it lets you

[Mike]

Weld the piece to something at the angle you want then drill the hole with the holes saw, with patience you can holesaw a hole in thick plate at an angle or simply twist the drill table if it lets you

The drill table will twist up to 45 degrees, but I may not have to put an angle on it now.

After I tacked the mounting tubes into place tonight, I found that I still didn't have enough room to clear the Pittman swing arc after my tie rod was raised enough to clear the diff cover.

I am going to need to make the steering box flat and as high as I can go. I made the measurements and marked the place to cut an angle into the lower part of the mount. If it works, it will allow me to still use the lower half of the mount. The upper bolt will require some creative modification, but I think that I have it worked out.

Time for rework....again.

[aw12345]

tilting the steering box will get you the room you need

[Mike]

tilting the steering box will get you the room you need

Yeah, my original thought isn't working. I'm going to ask a neighbor to help hold the weight of the PSC steering box while I experiment with the different angles this weekend. Hopefully I will get to the winning angle soon.